Cubic Zircona (cz)

Cubic Zirconia (cz)

As Good As Diamonds!!!

Cubic Zirconias, often referred to as CZ, are the most successful simulated diamond. They are more reflective than glass, rhinestone, or crystal and sparkle much more brilliantly

They are fully faceted synthetic stones which replicate the characteristics of a Diamond more closely than any other gem material; e.g. their refraction, hardness, and specific gravity. CZ are very hard to distinguish from diamond. Even trained jewelers cannot tell the difference between a CZ and a Diamond with the naked eye. The synthesized material is hard, optically flawless and usually colorless, but may be made in a variety of different colors. There are very few substances on earth harder than CZ. With a hardness rating of 8.5, CZ comes close to matching diamond's perfect 10.

CZ are often categorised as synthetic Gemstones. CZ outweigh equivalent sized Diamonds by 65% - 75%. As such, a CZ's size is referred to in carats only as in comparison to diamonds. CZ is more accurately measured in millimeters, referring to the diameter. Because of its low cost, durability, and close visual likeness to diamond, synthetic cubic zirconia has remained the most gemologically and economically important diamond simulant since 1976.

Advantages of CZ over Diamonds

Well really! Diamonds are a girl's best friend. But perhaps a girl is allowed to have more than one best friend ... and CZ is definitely a top candidate for that position!

• CZ can come in many dazzling colours
• Cubic Zirconia is also flawless, whereas diamond usually contains impurities and inclusions.
• And CZs are priced much lower than diamonds!!
• The finest CZ's are perfect in clarity. The finest CZ is cut to exacting tolerances, according to the proportions demanded in fine diamond cutting. Finely cut CZ's will have a polished girdle and more fire.
• CZ has slightly less brilliance or sparkle than a diamond and more fire or flashes of color.

Caring for your CZ

Avoid touching CZ stones; the natural oils on fingers can leave a film that dulls the brilliance.

However CZ gemstones can be cleaned with any conventional jewelry cleaner or detergent (preferably without any ammonia). Due to its hardness and durability, you can use a brush to clean off dirt or oil also. Ultra sonic jewelry cleaners may also be used on CZ and will not damage the stone. However, when using soaps or detergents to clean CZ, one should wipe the jewelry dry thoroughly to avoid residue from the soap leaving a film that will dull the brilliance of the stone. Cubic Zirconia should be cleaned frequently to remove oils from skin that also dull the brilliance of the gem.

Diamond

Diamonds

Diamonds are indeed a girl's best friend!

Many believe that diamonds are the ultimate symbol of love and commitment. Much of this belief can be attributed to the breath-taking, scintillating, sparkling beauty of the polished stone. Fine diamonds take millions of years to form, have endured intense volcanic pressure, and could have been mined and extracted from extremely dangerous situations.

For those of you who have seen the movie "Blood Diamond", you are now well aware of some of these extreme dangers as well as the fact that diamonds have been mined in the most questionable ways and been used to fund violence and civil wars. The Kimberly Process is one safeguard that hopes to stop this nefarious activity by providing a safeguard via a traceable guarantee on the whole supply chain of any particular diamond. These diamonds can be tracked from the mine, through sorting, cutting, and distribution to the markets. Whenever you buy diamonds, you should always confirm that the diamond complies with the Kimberly Process. It is safer for you and is another small but needful and important step to ensure that we no not support nor encourage the horrors as portrayed in the movie "Blood Diamond".

The 4Cs of Diamonds

Almost every diamond devotee can sprout out the 4Cs of diamonds:

• carat
• clarity
• colour
• cut

The cut is the one that is most influenced by humans as the other 3 Cs are predetermined by nature.

Carat

Just like other precious stones, carat is the weight unit of measurement for diamonds. A carat is 200milligrams (0.2 grams). 1 carat is also equivalent to 100 points, so that half a carat (0.5ct) is also denoted as 50 points.

Note that the price of diamonds is not linearly related to its carat (weight).

Clarity

Clarity is about how free the diamond is free from inclusion and blemishes. Inclusions are traces of non-crystallised carbon or other non-diamond crystals. Almost every diamond has inclusions and is unique per diamond, like finger prints are unique for humans.

The brilliance of diamonds from the reflection and refraction of light going through and being reflect and refracted out from the diamond. If there is anything in the diamond that disrupts this flow, the brilliance is affected and reduced. Inclusions and blemishes are these obstacles in that path of light which causes a certain amount of loss in the reflected light from the diamonds.

Diamond clarity is graded by the amount of these inclusions and blemishes within. The less the better.

1. Flawless (FL)
2. Internally Flawless (IF)
3. Very Very Slightly included (VVS) - this is not visible to the naked eye
4. Very Slight included (VS) - also not visible to the naked eye
5. Slightly Included (SI) - also not visible to the naked eye
6. Piqué or Included (P or I) - often visible to the naked eye

Colour

The colour of diamonds refers to the intensity or the lack of colour.

There are gradings of diamond within the white range. If the diamond has colour, they are normally assigned fancy and descriptive names like "fancy intense yellow" or "fancy vivid purplish pink". However with coloured diamonds, the more intense the colouring, the more expensive it is because they are scare. In fact, an intense coloured diamond can even be more expensive than a colourless diamond based on their relative scarcity.

Cut

This is the one criterion that is most influencable by humans and believed by many to be the most important of the 4Cs. The cut of a diamond does not refer to the shape of a diamond but rather to the quality of the cut. It is the precision of the cut which determines the proportion, finish, and symmetry of the diamond - giving it the fire and brilliance that is so highly valued. It is in the cut of a diamond that a rough diamond is transformed into a highly valued and polished stone.

It is the cut of a diamond that will most dramatically influences its final fire and sparkle. A well cut diamond can increase the sparkle and brilliance because when cut well, light will also reflect internally from one polished surface to another. Not only will a well-cut diamond minimise any inherent imperfections in the diamond, but you can actually buy a well-cut stone with lower clarity at a lesser price and find that it actually can look livelier than a diamond of superior clarity.

"Make" is the term used by professionals to describe the overall quality of the cutting. A diamond with an 'excellent make' will of course fetch a higher price than one with a 'fair make'. And 'ideal' or 'super-ideal' make will fetch a premium price. It takes much skill and time to produce one of those. In fact, on average, a 'rough' diamond can lose as much as 60% of its weight to become a 'super-ideal'!!

Shapes of Diamonds

The following are some of the popular shapes of diamonds:

• round brilliant - most popular
• baguette
• princess - also known as square cut, creates a bright, scintillating sparkle
• oval - adaptation of the round brilliant. Makes the diamond appear larger than a round stone of the same carat weight
• emerald - rectangular with oblong facets on each side and across the corners
• radiant
• pear - from the French word 'pendologue' which relates to the English word 'pendant'
• marquise - diamond shape that is long and pointed at both ends
• heart - most romantic of all the fancy shapes
• triangle
• round single-cut

Of these shapes, the round brilliant shape is the most abundant because specific proportions and facet arrangements have been accepted by the diamond industry.

Jewelry Care for Diamonds

Like all other jewellery, it is advisable to remove your them when doing hard labour like gardening or cleaning. Chemicals can affect and dull the brilliance of your diamond.

Always make sure that your diamonds are well and securely set. If loose, get them repaired immediately by your jewellery to prevent heart-breaking loss of such an expensive stone.

Do not store your diamonds 'in the raw' together with your other jewellery. Diamonds, being the hardest of stones, it will cut and scratch your other items. So always make sure that each is individually wrapped and stored in a fabric-lined case.

It is preferable to get your diamonds polished professionally. When cleaning them yourself, use mild dishwashing detergent and warm water, then rinse immediately and dry with a clean cloth.

Gemstones and Meanings

Gemstones and Their Meanings

The Power and Attraction of Gemstones

Throughout time, gemstones of all kinds have been held in high regard across many ancient cultures. Today much of the known powers of these stones are less known than they once were. However the knowledge of stones continue to exert an undeniably allure to those in the know, those who wish to use or wear them.

The meanings behind the stones have grown over the centuries through experience, the esoteric arts, and from healers gifted with the extra sense. These here is a compilation of some of those meanings and what they can do for you.

Amazonite

Improves self worth/confidence

Amber

Lift heaviness, allowing happiness to come through.

Amethyst

Spiritually uplifting and for effective communication.

Apatite

For communication, clearing of misunderstandings.

Hematite

For protection from the negative emotions of others; establishes strong connection between our body & inner spirit.

Turquoise

The original meaning of Turquoise is "Turkish stone" as it came into Europe via Turkey. Turquoise represents strength, protection, psychic sensitivity, and spiritual connection. It has long been used in protection amulets and also as a symbol of wealth.

Read more information on Turquoise gemstone.

Turquoise Gemstone

Turquoise Gemstone and Its Meanings

The original meaning of Turquoise is "Turkish stone" or "stone of Turkey" as it came into Europe via Turkey. Turquoise represents strength, protection, psychic sensitivity, and spiritual connection. It has long been used in protection amulets and also as a symbol of wealth.

Turquoise Meanings & Healing Properties

Turquoise stone is believed to have healing properties and as such is very popular with healers. It also has many meanings and symbolism - some generic and universal, and some more related to different cultures and times.

These are beliefs and not provable facts and are presented here to be used at your own discretion and not as a substitute for medical attention.

Turquoise & Meanings

• innocence - a defender of virtue
• attracts money, love, and happiness
• pledge of affection (when the stone is given to someone (not bought))
• protection
• courage
• friendship
• peace at home
• promotes spontaneity in romance
• stimulates the initiation of romantic love

Turquoise Healing Properties
Turquoise is often considered a master healing stone.

• balances and aligns all the chakras and subtle bodies and helps elevates the energies to a higher level
• highly spiritual stone but also grounding
• for positive states of mind
• opens the heart for giving and receiving
• neutralize over-acidity
• alleviates rheumatism, gout, viral infections, stomach problems
• relaxes cramps
• soothes physical pains
• posses anti-inflammatory and detoxifying properties (from alcohol, poison, pollution, sun radiation

For best effect, turquoise should be worn on or near the solar plexus. The power of the Turquoise stone will be improved when used in combination with copper.

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Turquoise Tradition in Different Cultures

Orient: given to riders and steeds. It was believed to protect the wearer from falling (especially from horses). Turquoise was also considered a protection against the "evil eye".

Russia: Brides were often given a silver ring the turquoise stone. This was meant to bring peace of mind to the woman and grant the man strength for labor, prosperity, and health.

Native Americans: prized turquoise quite highly, often carving them into animal shapes. Turquoise was believed to attract beneficial spirits as they embodied the Heavens in their blue, and the Earth in their greens. These might be place in tombs to protect the dead.

Native American warriors often fixed turquoise at the end of their bows to ensure accuracy in their shooting. Native Americans continue to feature a lot of turquoise even in their modern art and jewellery.

Tibet: Turquoise is also very popular in Tibet and much of their traditional and contemporary jewelry will feature turquoise. Turquoise will also change colour over time, which to the Tibetans, symbolizes the cycle of life and death. Apart from jewelry, Tibetans used to traditionally carve turquoise into ritual objects.

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Caring For Turquoise

• store it separately from harder stones to avoid the turquoise being scratched and damaged
• store away form high heat and chemicals. Chemicals like oils, perfumes, and household cleaners can affect even stabilized turquoise.
• clean turquoise with warm, sudsy water and dry immediately with soft cloth.
• do not use commercial jewelry cleaners

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Turquoise FAQs

How is Turquoise Formed?

It is a complex process that takes millions of years. Turquoise is formed when water percolates through rocks that contain copper, aluminium, and/or other minerals. It is from a chemical reaction between these that result in a deposit which we know as turquoise.

Why do Turquoise Stones Come in Different Colours?

The blue in natural turquoise is the result of copper being present during its formation. If there had been more aluminium present, the color would tend towards green. A yellow-green turquoise is very rare and only occurs if zinc was present in its formation.

Why are there more Colours in Turquoise stones these days?

Turquoise is a porous stone. Its hardness can vary. Turquoise can be so soft and porous that it is chalk-like and unsuitable for use.

Stabilized turquoise is when epoxy resin or some other substance has been infused into the pores of a soft turquoise - making them hard enough for use. Stabilized turquoise is no longer porous. Chemicals can be used in the process to enhance and change the colour of turquoise. Hence it is not uncommon to find turquoise on the market in a variety of colours. The colors in a stabilized turquoise will not change over time.

Most of the turquoise found in modern jewelry has been treated or enhanced in some ways. If only high-end turquoise was available, then it would prohibit many jewelry makers and wearers from ever having any turquoise jewelry and ornaments at all.

Look out for terms like "reconstituted". This describes a process where only turquoise chips have been used. The chips are usually mixed with a much larger quantity of resin and then moulded into shapes.

What are the Dark Markings in Turquoise?

The markings are actually the foundation rock that the turquoise was deposited and formed in. These foundation stone markings are called the matrix. When the turquoise stone is cut, some of these markings remain bound to and part of the stone. The matrix color will vary depending on the base rock on which it was formed.

Spider webbing refers to very fine lines of matrix that are distributed throughout the stone.

Below are some possible base rock that might result in various matrix coloration.

• Black matrix - iron pyrite
• Yellow matrix - rhyolite
• Brown matrix - iron oxide

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Other References

Stones Information

The Meaning of Stones

The Meaning of Turquoise

Gold - real

Real Gold

Do you know REAL GOLD?

Gold Purity

Pure gold is 100% gold. However pure gold (also known as 24 kt gold) is too soft for the wear and tear of everyday living.

The gold you buy is usually mixed with other metals (like zinc, copper, silver) so that it is stronger and more durable. The percentage of gold in an alloy will determine its karatage.

6 Levels of Accepted Gold Karatages

FAQs on Gold

Q. Why is 100% called 24kt gold?

The amount of karatage in gold is an indication of its gold purity (i.e. amount of gold in the alloy). This amount is measured in 24ths-parts - hence making 24kt pure gold (i.e. 24/24 parts of gold).

Q. What is the difference between 9kt and 18kt gold?

This is a very common question asked and asked again in jewelry stores. That is because, especially in the Western countries, a lot of 'gold' jewelry is sold either in 9 or 18 kt gold.

However, even though 9kt gold does have gold in the metal alloy, that low percentage of gold is not considered as 'real gold' both in Europe and United States. The common argument that 9kt gold is stronger and therefore, more durable that the 18kt (or other higher karatages of gold) is not a very strong argument. After all, iron is also stronger in metal strength!

Q. What is the difference between karat and carat?

Karat is a measurement for the purity of gold (amount of gold in an alloy) and platinum alloys. All jewelry that is designated and recognised as real gold (within the recognized karat ranges) will normally have the karat amount stamped on the jewelry piece (normally on the inside band of a ring; on the clasp in necklaces and bracelets).

Karat is the established measure of purity in United States and Canada.  In other countries, this is complemented (or superceded) by the millesimal fineness system.

The word carat originated from the Greek word 'keration' which means 'fruit of the carob' (or carob bean). Carob beans was once used to measure fine gemstones because the carob beans have uniform sizes and were used as weights on precision scales. Today carat is a unit for measurement for the weight of diamonds and other fine gemstones. (One carat is equivalent to 200milligrams or 0.2 grams).

Q. How is gold from Asia different from the gold normally obtained from Western countries?

You will often find that a lot of gold jewelry from Asia (especially South East Asia) is sold as 24kt or 22kt gold. It has been told to me that 24K gold in Asia is really equivalent to 22K in the Western world. This is probably true because according to most jewelers, pure 100% gold is too soft for long-term wear as it is too soft.

I do know that the Asian 24K gold is richer in gold content and softer but still very durable.  From babyhood, I have been fortunate enough to be given and have continuously worn 24kt gold rings, bangles, necklaces. And I am not one of those people who are capable of being fashion conscious enough to change jewelry with every outfit I wear. So even tho I tend to wear my gold jewelry continuously (sometimes for years), I have never encountered problems with my 24kt Asian gold jewelry - not wearing out nor breaking. So from personal experience, I fully endorse the Asian 24kt gold jewelery ... if you are lucky to find them.

Colors of Gold

Gold on the market comes in 3 main colours: yellow gold, white gold, and rose gold. Gold in its natural state is always yellow.

The chemical symbol of gold is Au.  This comes from the Latin word 'aurum' which means 'shinning dawn'.  Aurora is also the Roman goddess of dawn.  Both a direct link to the warm, yellow colour of gold.

Pure gold is mixed with other metals not just to increase strength and durability, but also to change the colour of the resultant gold (alloy).

White Gold

White gold comes from mixing nickel, palladium, and/or other white metals with natural yellow gold - with a resultant metal that looks silver in colour.

Many confuse white gold with platinum but they are not the same. They do look similar.

Disadvantages of white gold:

• can be brittle
• can cause allergic reaction (especially if it has nickel content)
• can look a bit yellowish (as it contains yellow gold)

To overcome these advantages, while gold is very often platinum plated, or rhodium plated.

Advantages of white gold:

• durable
• tarnish resistant
• firescale resistant

Rose Gold

Adding copper produces rose gold. Generally, the mixture is 75% gold & 25% copper. Rose gold will be darker (rosier) with higher percentage of copper.

Though this is a lovely colour, rose gold will patina over time due to the copper content.

As an aside, it is interesting to note that adding silver will give gold a greenish tinge.

Jewelry Care for Gold

Even though gold is tarnish-resistant and retains its lustre over prolonged periods of time and will not chip, flake, or corrode, makeup and cleaning products can dull its appearance. So it is advisable to remove your gold jewelry when you go for a swim, spa, or sauna. Chemicals tend to dull the appearance of almost any precious metal.

To clean your gold jewelry, using some mild detergent and water is sufficient. Then polish up the pieces with a soft cloth.

Niobium

Niobium - A Dream Material for Jewelers

Niobium is a jeweler's dream metal for many reasons.

• highly resistant to chemical attack
• very pure kind of metal - has no nickel, no alloy
• super hypoallergenic - so much so that many people who are allergic to gold can wear niobium with no allergy reaction
• malleable, very ductile
• corrosion resistant
• comes in a wide range of rich anodized colours
• light weight (lighter than sterling silver)

So what is Niobium?

Some say this is a precious metal or a semi-precious metal. It does indeed have many characteristics of precious metals. Like other precious metals (e.g. gold and silver), jewelers are able to work this metal with hand tools alone. Its natural colour is white-silver-grey (like steel) and when polished, it resembles platinum in appearance.

It is a very pure metal and is used extensively for pierced ears, body piercing, and even in surgery procedures.

Amazing Colors of Niobium

Niobium articles can come in an amazing array of luxuriously rich colours. However no dyes, paints, or colouring is used. Rather the metal is anodized and the range of colours is due to refracted light. The anodizing process lays a protective layer of oxide over the metal and it is the possible various thicknesses of the oxide layers that yield the amazing range of rich colours.

This oxide coating is essentially transparent but chemically stable so that the colours do not change over time. And unlike other finishes, this finish preserves the natural lustre, texture, and beauty of the underlying metal.

Working with Niobium

Thousands of pounds of niobium are used in the jewelry each year. However this is but a small fraction of the industry's overall use of metals. And yet, this metal is highly suitable for the making of jewelry related items. We think that one of the reasons why it is not as widely employed as it logically should be is that this metal is sadly not as well known.

The following are some of the characteristics that are relevant when using niobium in jewelry-making:

• metal is very ductile
• metal is very slow to harden while working with it
• easy to cut with a jeweler's saw
• can be hand formed, dapped, chased, and forged with ease
• at room temperature, a thin adherent, transparent, and self-healing oxide film forms on the surface which protects the metal from corrosion
• it should not be soldered nor heated to melting point
• makes very attractive earwires and jump rings and contracts very well with silver (as in chain maille)

Caring for Niobium

It is very easy to clean - just use soap and warm water. Harsh chemical is not recommended.

Pearls

Pearl: Beauty and Heritage

Pearl is Nature's Wondrous Creation

Pearl is a gift from nature - a natural gemstone whose luminescent surface is reminiscent of feminine elegance. Donning on a luscious strand of pearl is like stepping into a bygone era of glamorous sophistication.

What is a pearl?

Pearls are produced primarily by oysters and can take up to three years to produce. In response to an irritant in the oyster, layers and layers of nacre are coated around that irritant until eventually we end up with a lustrous pearl.

Pearl History

the late nineteenth century, pearl hunting was the primary way of obtaining pearls. This was a time-consuming and arduous task. Pearl divers would dive to river and floor beads and each oyster found had to be checked. Natural pearls were so rare that it would be lucky to find one pearl in 10,000 oysters found! To ease this situation, culturing pearls was formulated. That is why today, most pearls are manmade (or at least, man-helped) and are commonly referred to as cultured pearls.

Culturing pearls was first developed by Tatsuhei Mise Tokishi Nishikawa in Japan and this was later refined and perfected by Kokichi Mikimoto. Mikimoto was granted a patent for his process in 1916.

On average, an Akoya pearl takes a year to cultivate, and the Tahitian, and South Sea pearls take three years.

Types of Pearls

There are 2 main categories, based on where they are formed: freshwater pearls and saltwater pearls.

As their name implies, freshwater pearls are formed in freshwater mussels that live in freshwater ponds, rivers, and lakes.

Saltwater pearls are grown in oysters in the ocean.

The famous pearls like the Akoya, Tahitian, and South Sea pearls are all saltwater pearls

Pearl Shapes

Pearls can come in a variety of shapes ~ from the classic round, to the oval, baroque, button (cushion-shaped), and the mabe (half sphere with one flat surface). Each of them are beautiful and distinctive in their own right.

Additional Pearl Information

The Largest Pearl

The largest pearl ~ the Pearl of Allah ~ was discovered in the Philippines in 1934 by a Muslim diver. It weighs a massive 6.4kg and came from a giant clam off the coast of Palawan Island. It is valued at approximately $40 million and was named by a Palawan tribal chief. This pearl was gifted by the Palawan chief to Wilbur Dowell Cobb in 1936 for saving the life of the chief's son.

Though originally named 'Pearl of Allah', it has now been officially renamed to 'Pearl of Lao Tzu'.

Most Famous Pearl

'Hope Pearl' is arguably the most famous natural saltwater pearl ever discovered. It currently resides in the British Museum of Natural History. It weighs 450 carats, is a white, drop-shape blister pearl and measures 6 x 12 cm. Its lustrous sheen and colour ranges from greenish-gold to white.

Largest Natural Abalone pearl

The 'Big Pink Pearl' was valued in 1991 at USD$4.7 million. This baroque pearl weighs 470 carats.

Jewelry Care for your Pearls

Pearl strands should be strung properly - with a knot between each pearl. This prevents your pearls skittering across the floor and getting lost in the unfortunate even of the strand of pearls breaking. Traditionally, strands of pearls are always knotted between each pearl. Apart from loss in case the strand breaks, the in-between knot is also a good idea because pearls tend to continue excreting enzymes which can actually corrupt the threads. And pearl strand/necklace that is worn frequently should be re strung about once a year.

Pearls are softer than most other gemstones. So don't just throw your lovely pearls in amongst your other gems which will scratch the pearls. Also, the lustre of pearls are affected by heat which removes the natural moisture on the pearls surface. It is this natural moisture that gives your pearls its unmatchable lustre. Wrap your pearls up in soft, clean cloth, away from heat when storing.

To clean your pearls, wipe gently with damp (not wet) cloth. Water can cause pearls to discolour and the stringing thread to deteriorate. By the same reason, do not wear your pearls in baths, shower, spa, sauna, or when swimming. Dirty water and oils will also discolour pearls.

Precious Metals

Precious Metals

Technically, precious metals are rare metallic chemical elements with high economic values. A metal is deemed precious if it is rare and commands a high market value due to high demand. Aluminum was once considered a precious (even more valuable than gold!) until the development of the process which enabled it to be extracted on large scales.

Two of the most well known of these valuable metals are (real) gold and silver, more specifically, sterling silver. Even though they are used in multitude of industrial purposes, they are better known for their wide use in art, jewellery, and coinage.

Gold, silver, and copper occur naturally. They are all found in the metallic state in the earth's crust. They can be found either as nuggets (large chunks) or as small flakes.

The platinum group metals are also known as precious metals. They include:

• rhodium
• ruthenium
• palladium
• platinum

Even though silver is substantially less expensive than the other precious metals, it remains one of the most popular and sought-after metals for coinage and jewelry.

Many of the high end jewelry is made from or with a combination of gold, gold filled, sterling silver.

Rhodium

Rhodium and Rhodium Plating

Rhodium, White Gold, and Platinum?

Rhodium is a precious metal in the platinum group. It is very white, highly reflective, extremely hard and virtually tarnish proof, and it is commonly used to plate white gold pieces to give them that shiny white or ‘silvery’ appearance. It is very similar to platinum, sharing many of the same properties including its white colour.

It is often used to plate white gold and even platinum to give it a reflective white surface. This form of plating is also known as rhodium flashing in the jewelry business. It is also used to plate sterling silver for its whiteness, its hardness, and its anti-tarnish properties. Rhodium itself is much more expensive than either gold or sterling silver.

As with all plating, this plating too will wear out over time. All jewelers recommend that rhodium plated jewelry be re-plated within 1 to 5 years, depending on the the amount and frequency of the wear on the jewelry.

White Gold or Platinum

There is often some confusion between white gold and platinum jewelry. White gold jewelry, especially rings, are often electroplated with rhodium, making then more reflective and white. The colour then is just about indistinguishable from platinum. However without the plating, the difference between white gold and platinum is much more noticeable. As shown in the picture on the right, the ring, comprising of platinum (lighter bands) and white gold (darker bands) is quite different. As you can see, it makes a very interesting combination nonetheless.

So why bother rhodium plating white gold just to make them look like platinum? Why not just use platinum? That is because rhodium plated jewelry is a much more affordable alternative to platinum jewelry while still giving the same reflective white silvery look. Platinum, on an average, is about 150% of the price of gold!

Advantages of Rhodium Plating

• Rhodium is very white, reflective, extremely hard and virtually tarnish proof.
• Similar to stainless steel in color and reflectivity, objects plated with rhodium finishes remain unusually durable, pristine in appearance, and easily maintained for many years.
• If you are sensitive to nickel and its alloys, a rhodium plate will eliminate this annoyance.
• It has exceptional resistance to oxidation under very extreme environmental conditions
• Rhodium will maintain a bright metallic white color under all atmospheric conditions at ordinary temperatures.

Sterling Silver

Sterling Silver

and other Silver Alloy variations

Not commonly known or considered, silver actually comes in many compositions.

Sterling Silver

"Sterling Silver", also known as "Standard Silver" (because it is the standard for fine jewellery) is not pure silver. Rather it is an alloy comprising of 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% of other metals (usually copper) ~ and is often referred to as having a 92.5% fineness, or more accurately, millesimal fineness ^[glossary].

Sterling silver is one of the whitest metals - whiter than white gold or platinum. But it does need to be polished as it tarnishes. It is harder than pure silver. When silver is alloyed with copper, it gains hardness and strength while preserving it's ductility (i.e. non-brittleness). It also has a lower melting point (893°C) then either pure silver or pure copper. Other metals are used in lieu of copper for improving other properties like reducing casting porosity, eliminating firescale, &/or to increase its resistance to tarnish.

Other metals that may be used in place of copper are germanium, zinc, or platinum. Additives like silicon and boron may also be used.

In recent years, a number of different silver alloys have appeared claiming more firescale and/or tarnish resistance. There is much competition between manufacturers but no industry leader has yet emerged and this area continues to be a very active development area.

In USA, sterling components and jewellery are often stamped "Sterling". For international trade, it is often quality marked "925".

You can find a whole range of genuine and usually hallmarked Sterling Silver jewelry as well as beads and 925 silver findings at enjoyably low prices from ClearlyChosen, one of our recommended shopping online stores.

Other Silver Alloys

Fine Silver has 99.9% silver - i.e. 999 purity fineness. However this is generally too soft for making large functional objects.

Britannia Silver is a hallmark-quality standard silver alloy with 95.8% silver - higher fineness than Sterling. It is often used in making silver tableware and wrought plate.

Coin Silver, which is used in some countries. They are marked "900" or "800" depending on fineness (silver content).

There are some 'silver' markings that are quite deceptive so it would be advantageous to know what they are.

"Mexican Silver", "German Silver", "Indian Silver", "Montana Silver", or simply "Silver" may not have any silver content at all!!

"German Silver" - also commonly called "Nickel Silver" - is actually an alloy of copper, nickel, and zinc. It contains no silver at all.

Testing Sterling Silver

Some countries actually require jewelry made from precious metal to be submitted to a governmental assay office for destructive testing before it can be quality marked and sold.

Nitric acid is used to easily test sterling silver. Silver plated brass, nickel silver, and other low quality silver turns green on application of a drop of nitric acid. Sterling however will turn a creamy colour.

If a good/item is suspected of not being sterling, a small file can be used to cut through any plating or lacquer in an unobtrusive part of the suspect item.

Quality Marking

Though some countries (like European countries) require that precious metal, after testing, be quality marked (e.g. "925" for sterling) - not all sterling jewelry is thus marked. There are many reasons for this.

In USA, their Federal law does not require precious metals to be quality stamped. However if it is quality stamped, then US law requires a maker's mark on the item as well. A maker's mark can be in the form of a hallmark or a registered trademark. This can be very expensive. In USA, registering a trademark can cost over US$1,000. Hence the maker may decide not to spend the money to acquire a legal hallmark. Many small time artists usually cannot afford this and so their work are not trademarked.

To get around this, many individual artists stamp a quality mark together with their name or initials. This satisfies the accountability which is really at the heart of the US stamping act. However it is not considered legal.

Next, the size and design of some jewellery pieces do not lend themselves to quality marking. Many small sterling silver findings and components are hence not quality stamped. It is then up to the final artist or assembler to attach a mark like a chain tab to the finished piece if they so choose.

Trends of Silver use

Despite recent silver price hikes , silver is still the most economical precious metal for jewelry. And while silver jewelry consumption is still heavily skewed towards western markets, it has invariably pushed fabrication higher in top jewellery manufacturing centers in Thailand, India, Italy, and China.

Globally, silver consumption for jewelry making is twice as much as that for gold. And both of these individually have higher consumption in the industry than platinum or palladium.

Jewelry Care for your Silver

Silver oxidises over time, turning black when affected by oxygen and light. Rhodium-plating your silver pieces will make it more durable and tarnish-resistant. A much cheaper and common way is to polish your silver regularly with a silver polishing cloth. Keeping your silver pieces in certain plastic bags will also help retard tarnishing.

As an interesting side note, there may be people who are like my sister ~ when she wears sterling silver, even tarnished silver, the tarnish actually disappears! She is a natural silver polisher!! Maybe you are luckily 'affected' the same way!

Wire

Wire

Beading and Jewelry Wire

What Wire To Use

Though often used synonymously, strictly speaking, jewelry wire is not the same as beading wire (e.g. Soft Flex). Beading wires are often referred to by their brand name as a means of differentiation.

In choosing your jewelry wire (aka metal wire), there are 4 main aspects to consider:

1. metal (type)
2. wire gauge
3. wire hardness
4. wire shape

Jewelry Wire - What Metal?

Jewellery wire comes in various metals like copper, brass, gold, silver, aluminum, steel, and so on. They also come in various finishes, colours, and platings. The choice will be a personal matter and will also depend on your purpose.

Wire Gauge

In jewelry making, the word gauge can refer to the thickness of wire or of sheet metal. And to make it a bit more confusing, the word gauge can also refer to a metal tool that is used to determine the thickness of wire.

Wire gauge is an important factor, based on your project needs. Wire Gauge conversion tables are very helpful because wire is often sold with size indication in millimeters, inches, or in gauge. It broadly depends on where you live. There is the metric measurement where the diameter of the wire is measured in millimeters. Then there is the Brown & Sharpe (B&S) system where the wire diameter is given in gauge.

So if you are used to knowing the size of wire in gauge, and a seller is selling with size measurement in millimeters, you need to be able to determine the wire gauge.

What are the Wire Gauges Generally Used For?

This is one of the most common questions that a beginners needs answered. Which Wire Gauge Should I Use? answers that very basic question.

Wire Hardness

Wire hardness refers to the malleability or pliability of the particular metal. And different metals have different hardness.
For instance, from hardest to softest:
Brass and Bronze -> Sterling Silver -> Copper

If you are using fine gauge wires, their hardness is irrelevant as all fine wires are pliable. But for the thicker wires, you want to choose the hardness that is appropriate for your work. For example, if you are making earwires, you want some stiffness and spring in the wire. But if you are coiling wire, you want the wire to be soft enough to wrap around the mandrel or bead.

Craftwire is usually made of copper with some (colored) coating. Craft wire does not come with different hardness. They are all quite soft and easy to work with. However when you buy raw silver, gold, or copper wire, you will need to specify the hardness you want.

• Full Hard: Fully tempered. Very hard and stiff. (rarely needed in jewelry making)
• Half Hard: Softer than full hard but will hold shape. Uses: for ear wires or hooks.
  
  If working with precious metal wires, use the half hard rather than the dead soft. In precious metals, the half hard is easier to work with and produce more precise work. The dead soft precious metal wire will tend to "drift" during work, yielding imprecise workmanship.
• Dead Soft: Very soft, no spring, very pliable. Uses: ideal for bending, coiling, hammering, and manipulating the wire a lot ~ wire sculpted jewelry.

How to Harden/Soften Wire?

Manipulating wire will harden it - hammering, coiling, wrapping. The manipulation causes its molecular structure to change - becoming harder and stiffer. This is called work hardening.

Metal can also be softened again via the use of a torch or kiln.

Wire Shapes

Here we are talking about the shape of the wire, seen from the cross-section across its diameter. Among the many shapes there are round, square, half-round wires. Round wires are the most common and most popular as they are the most versatile. Some jewellery artisans do use the half-rounds to wrap around the square wires when attaching them together.

Wire Gauge Table

Wire Gauge

Sizes of Beading and Jewelry Wire

Below is a helpful conversion table for Wire Gauge (also sometimes spelt as gage). The conversion is best approximation only as there seems to be no general and consistent agreement to the exact conversion.

Wire gauges can be confusing for beginners and is perversely counter-intuitive. There is no universal exact conversion. However the one rule that holds is that:

Wire Gauge Conversion - An explanation

Please take a moment to read this as it is important.

There are a number of gauge rating systems.

• AWG (American Wire Gauge) aka BS (Brown & Sharpe)
  - for precious metals - copper, gold, silver, etc.
• SWG ((Imperial or British) Standard Wire Gauge)
  - used mainly for industrial metals like steel, aluminum, brass, etc.
• US Steel Wire aka W&M (Washbum & Moen) or Roebling Gauge
  - for steel
• Birmingham Gauge aka Stubs Iron Gauge
  - for iron

Of these the AWG and the SWG are the 2 most used and well known gauge systems. So the table below will include these 2 systems. As you will see, the same gauge number does not give the same measurement. It depends on which system is used.

For instance, you are buying wire from a seller who tells you that the gauge is 20ga. From the table below, you can see that
20awg = 0.813mm but 20swg = 0.914mm. Not the same at all. (Sometimes it does not make much difference to you but sometimes it might. Depends on your project.)

The seller may not always be able to tell you if the gauge is in AWG or SWG. However if you are buying precious metals, then it is more likely than not that it is in AWG.

Use the conversion table to convert to one unit of measurement you most use, either millimeters or inches.

Jewelry Wire Gauge Conversion Table - Gauge to Inches/Millimeters

Which Wire Gauge Should I Use?

The size of the wire you choose will have a dramatic impact on the success of your project. And while this will eventually fall into a personal taste and experience selection, for the wire work newbie, it is immensely helpful to get an idea of what the different wire sizes are generally suitable for.

Sample	Wire Gauge	Comments and Uses (from thick to thin)
	14-16	Very thick, heavy wire. Need heavy duty, strong tools. Uses: stand-up forms, unsupported shapes, napkin rings, bracelet bases, strong neck wires
	18 (aka Stem Wire)	Fairly thick wire. Can use regular jewelry tools. Can be bent with hands but will require looping pliers to form loops and proper angles. Uses: in wire work, generally to form stems to which flowers, leaves, petals are attached.
	20 gauge	Medium thick wire. A good general purpose wire. Can use regular jewelry tools. Uses: ear wires, headpins, small wire clasps. For beaded flowers, leaves, and petals in wire craftwork.
	22 gauge	Medium wire. Good substitute when 20ga is just too thick. Can use regular jewelry tools. Uses: Wire wrapping large-holed beads like glass, bone and wood. For beaded flowers, leaves, and petals in wire craftwork. In form craftwork, if using steel wire, the thinner 24 or 26 gauge steel wires might be better as the thicker 22ga steel might be too stiff on the fingers. If using precious metal wires or soft wire, then 22 or 24 gauge wire would be better than the thinner 26 ga. Note: will fit most crystal and stone beads and seed beads size 10 and 11 comfortably. Could also fit pearl.
	24 gauge	Medium Thin Wire. Can use regular jewelry tools. Has tendency to kink so use wire straightening pliers. Uses: wire wrap most beads (not fine gemstones, small briolettes, fragile beads). Note: will fit pearls and seed beads size 10 and 11 comfortably.
	26 gauge	Thin Wire Use tools with fine tips. Use straightening pliers as this wire tends to kink. In wire wrapping, loops must be wrapped closed for it to maintain a loop shape. Uses: Wire wrap beads to tiaras. Use with small gemstones, briolettes. Use in any project where 24ga is a little too heavy. Note: will fit pearl and seed beads size 10 and 11 comfortably.
	28-30 gauge	Very Fine Wire Use tools with very fine tips. Use straightening pliers as this wire tends to kink. Uses: wire weaving, crocheting, knitting, wrapping with small beads, wire-wrapping very small, fine gemstones
	32 gauge (aka Lacing Wire)	Very Very Fine Wire Only about as thick as standard sewing threads, with about the same strength. Must be kept as straight as possible at all times because it breaks easily when kinked. Though so fine, use wire cutter as it can still ruin scissor blades. Uses: lacing together rows of bead (e.g. in making beaded leaves or flowers)