Bali Beads

Metal Bali Beads

Soul-Touching Ethnic Charm in Jewelry

The term 'Bali Beads' arose because this style of beads was originally only handcrafted in Bali, Indonesia. Due to their individually handcrafted nature, they are fairly pricey.

Hence, the price factor gave rise to 'Bali-style' beads which are generally from India or China and are very much more affordable for the general public. Offering an elegant & inexpensive medium, metal beads from copper & brass are used to manufacture a dizzying array of styles and looks while maintaining a rustic, ethnic charm.

Both are often quite ornate and are often used with crystal beads to create exotic & original jewellery creations. They are extremely popular with all age groups.

Bone Beads

Bone Beads

from bone comes such unique beauty

Modern Beads from Bone

Most modern bone beads are made from cow or sheep or camel bones. Bone is a durable material that is hard enough to wear well, but soft enough to be worked with nearly any hard tool.

Today, bone beads are popular for trendy bead amulets, often carved with traditional designs for primitive motifs. Since these beads are still hand carved every one is unique. Some of these unique hardcrafted natural beads can be found on ClearlyChosen at attractive pieces.  While most bone beads are cream colored, brown or black they can be found in every color of the rainbow. Many are stained black or brown to make them look old. Others may be colored with analine dyes, but natural is the most popular color.

Bone vs Ivory

Bones are an organic substance made of calcium phosphate and gelatinous protein compound - lending itself to bead making very well. Bone has long been used as a substitute for ivory and at first glance the two look similar. There are some very basic differences. The most obvious is that bone is heavier than ivory. Another is that upon close examination bone and ivory have very different appearances. Bone shows concentric layers and a dry appearance. Ivory, on the other hand, has a crisscross pattern and can be polished to a deep luster because the natural gelatin has not been removed.

Cabochon

What is Cabochon?

An ingenuous cut that highlights your stone

Shaped, Polished, Not Facetted

Cabochon, traditionally, was a gemstone that had been shaped and polished, but not facetted.  Nowadays, it also comes in other materials like cat's eye (optic fiber) and polymer clay.

A cabochon, sometimes spelt as cabouchon, sometimes incorrectly spelt as cabochan is often also referred to as a cab. 

Method of Cutting

Cabochon also refers to a method of cutting ~ "en cabochon" (also called cabbing). This is cutting a bead or gemstone with a convex, polished, rounded surface without any facets.  It also normally has a flat bottom.  The "en cabochon" cut is more often applied to opaque gems than transparent stones.  (Faceting is normally applied to transparent stones, most notably, diamonds). In fact, opaque, asteriated, iridescent, opalescent, or chatoyant stones are very suited to having an "en cabochon" cut as the cut brings out the interesting features of these types of stones.  The stones that fall into these category includes garnet, jasper, bloodstone, moonstone, cat's eye, star ruby, and sapphire.

Particularly with cat's eye, the domed shape of a cabochon cut brilliantly highlights the star or eye of the fiber optic bead; which would not be visible in a facetted cut.

The back of a normal cabochon-cut stone is flat, but with some stones, it may be hollowed out to lighten the colour. The bottom is either polished or sanded.  A flat back makes working and setting the stone easy.

Though the cabochon form of cutting is frequently used for opaque and translucent stones, it is also very effectively used for transparent materials that contain too many inclusion to yield a good facetted stone.  Coloration and patterning provide the major interest in such stones.

The cabochon form of cutting is simple but it can totally transform the look of a piece of rock, bringing out the magic of unique shapes and lines in the rock.

The most common shape of a cabochon stone is traditionally oval but a cabochon can come in a variety of shapes - ovals, rounds, teardrops, diamonds, squares.  Some jewelers cut their cabochons in irregular shapes which are designed to showcase certain features of the individual rocks.

The cut may also vary in size from quite small, for use in earring and rings, to very large, in the form of a centerpiece on a necklace or brooch.  A rock which has been cut into a cabochon may be described as en cabochon, or it may just be called a cabochon.

Cabochon in a Nutshell

• cut, polished, un-facetted
• flat bottom (usually but can also be hollowed)
• comes in many shapes; oval being the most common
• applied to opaque or translucent stones

Cateye Beads

Cateye Beads

What is Cateye bead?

Cat Eye bead is a very popular bead in jewelry making. It has the amazing property of changing hue and reflection points when viewed at different angles and in different light conditions. It usually has a distinctive light band running across it which can look like a cat's eye - hence the name. Cat eye bead is often spelt as cateye and also known as fiber optic (or fibre optics) bead.

With the increasing popularity of cat eye beads, they can now be found in an growing array of colours (including multi-colored beads), shapes, and sizes. The cabochon (flat back) versions are also now quite commonly found.

Crystal Beads

Sparkling Crystal Beads

The wondrous joys of a plentitude of glamorous sparkles

Crystal is glass with more than 30% lead. Crystal beads produce wonderful sparkles. It is this lead that produces the high refractive quality so sought after in crystal.

Amongst all the crystal lead beads, Swarovski crystals have been and continue to lead the pack in terms of desirability, quality, and crystal brilliance.  Its quality is typically labeled"Triple A" and we have only once seen one other non-Swarovski crystal which was able to match the brilliance of the Swarovski bead.  Unfortunately, the manufacturer had to stop production of that particular high-grade crystal because the production cost was too high.  Swarovski crystal uses only high lead content. Typically a full 32% of the glass is lead and lead oxide. The presence of lead heightens the index of refraction - making it look like diamond. And that is why it is also more expensive than any other crystals.

We recommend ClearlyChosen Crystallized™ Library as the most detailed source of all things Swarovski.

The 2 most common but ever-popular shapes for crystal beads are the timeless bicone crystals and the RFC (round facet cut) crystals. The number of cut faces on the RFC crystals are also a popular variation of that type of bead.

These days, more and more different shapes of crystal beads are to be found. Swarovski themselves are constantly coming up with new, unique & interesting shapes for their crystal products, findings, and beads.

Cubic Zirconia

Cubic Zirconia

As Good As Diamonds!!!

Cubic Zirconias, often referred to as CZ, are the most successful simulated diamond. They are more reflective than glass, rhinestone, or crystal and sparkle much more brilliantly.

They are fully faceted synthetic stones which replicate the characteristics of a Diamond more closely than any other gem material; e.g. their refraction, hardness, and specific gravity. CZ are very hard to distinguish from diamond. Even trained jewellers cannot tell the difference between a CZ and a Diamond with the naked eye. The synthesized material is hard, optically flawless and usually colorless, but may be made in a variety of different colors. There are very few substances on earth harder than CZ. With a hardness rating of 8.5, CZ comes close to matching diamond's perfect 10.

CZ are often categorised as synthetic Gemstones. CZ outweigh equivalent sized Diamonds by 65% - 75%. As such, a CZ's size is referred to in carats only as in comparison to diamonds. CZ is more accurately measured in millimeters, referring to the diameter. Because of its low cost, durability, and close visual likeness to diamond, synthetic cubic zirconia has remained the most gemologically and economically important diamond simulant since 1976.

CZ In a Nutshell

• most successful simulated diamond. Almost impossible to tell difference with naked eye.
• almost as hard as diamonds
• optically flawless
• more shine than crystals, rhinestones, glass
• measured in carats only in comparison with diamonds
• usually measure in millimeters (diameter)

Advantages of CZ over Diamonds

Well really! Diamonds are a girl's best friend. But perhaps a girl is allowed to have more than one best friend ... and CZ is definitely a top candidate for that position!

• CZ can come in many dazzling colours
• Cubic Zirconia is also flawless, whereas diamond usually contains impurities and inclusions.
• And CZs are priced much lower than diamonds!!
• The finest CZ's are perfect in clarity. The finest CZ is cut to exacting tolerances, according to the proportions demanded in fine diamond cutting. Finely cut CZ's will have a polished girdle and more fire.
• CZ has slightly less brilliance or sparkle than a diamond and more fire or flashes of color.

Caring for your CZ

Avoid touching CZ stones; the natural oils on fingers can leave a film that dulls the brilliance.

However CZ gemstones can be cleaned with any conventional jewelry cleaner or detergent (preferably without any ammonia). Due to its hardness and durability, you can use a brush to clean off dirt or oil also. Ultra sonic jewelry cleaners may also be used on CZ and will not damage the stone. However, when using soaps or detergents to clean CZ, one should wipe the jewelry dry thoroughly to avoid residue from the soap leaving a film that will dull the brilliance of the stone. Cubic Zirconia should be cleaned frequently to remove oils from skin that also dull the brilliance of the gem.

Gemstone Beads

Gemstone Beads

semi-precious glorious beads

The many meanings of the many precious gemstones around us.

Gemstone beads, being made from semi-precious gemstones, naturally hold more than innate beauty.  They also hold all the depth of meanings associated with the gemstones.

Generally speaking, a gemstone is a stone that is rare, beautiful, and durable (resistant to abrasion, fracturing, and chemical reactions.) Most gemstones have a good hardness and a fairly high index of refraction (sparkle).

It is widely, though not universally believed that gemstone have healing or therapeutic properties. Below are listed some of those associated properties.

• Amazonite: Improves self worth/confidence
• Amber: Lift heaviness, allowing happiness to come through
• Amethyst: Spiritually uplifting and for effective communication
• Apatite: For communication, clearing of misunderstandings
• Hematite: For protection from the negative emotions of others; establishes strong connection between our body & inner spirit

A much more detailed article on Gemstones and their Meanings.

Glass Beads

The Absolutely Versatile Glass Beads

just an amazing array of glass beads to love & own

Glass is one of the most versatile & widely used materials for the creation of beads. Glass beads have been around since ancient times. They back to at least Roman times. Perhaps the earliest glass-like beads were Egyptian faience beads, a form of clay bead with a self-forming vitreous coating.

Beads made from glass come in all forms, shapes, colours, sizes and undergo a huge, dizzifying array of production techniques to produce an endless variety of bead types .. venetian beads, cateye beads, crystals beads, glass pearls, bumpy beads, lampwork beads, etc etc.

The Many Types of Class Beads

Glass beads are normally categorized by the method used to manipulate& create the glass. Most beads fall into three main categories: wound beads, drawn beads, and molded beads. There are also composites, such as millefiori beads, where cross-sections of a drawn glass cane are applied to a wound glass core.

Crackle Glass beads

The technique of creating crackle glass was Invented by venetian glass-makers in the 16th century. The crackle bead is made by immersing in cold water while the glass is molten hot. This causes the glass to crack. It then re-heated, and then either moulded or hand-blown into the desired shape. It is the re-heating of the glass after it is cracked which seals the glass and gives the surface its lovely smooth feel. Crackle beads are beautiful & vibrant beads, adding life & beauty to jewellery creations.

Dichroic Glass beads

Increasingly, dichroic glass is being used to produce high-end art beads. Dichroic glass has a thin film of metal fused to the surface of the glass, resulting in a surface that has a metallic sheen that changes between two colors when viewed at different angles. Beads can be pressed, or made with traditional lampworking techniques.

Drawn Glass beads

Drawn glass is also a very ancient method.

There are several methods for making drawn beads and they all involve pulling a strand out of a gather of glass in such a way as to incorporate a bubble in the center of the stand to serve as the hole in the bead.

In Arekamedu this was accomplished by inserting a hollow metal tube into the ball of hot glass and pulling the glass strand out around it, to form a continuous glass tube.

In the Venetian bead industry, molten glass was gathered on the end of a tool called a puntile ("puntying up"), a bubble was incorporated into the center of a gather of molten glass, and a second puntile was attached before stretching the gather with its internal bubble into a long cane. The pulling was a skilled process, and canes were reportedly drawn to lengths up to 200 feet long. The drawn tube was then chopped, producing individual drawn beads from its slices. The resulting beads were cooked or rolled in hot sand to round the edges without melting the holes closed; were sieved into sizes; and, usually, strung onto hanks for sale.

A modern example of mechanically-drawn glass beads is the micro-bead or "seed bead", so called for its tiny, regular size. Seed beads are the most common type of modern glass bead. The seed bead is a small bead typically less than 6 mm, traditionally monochrome, and manufactured in very large quantities. Modern seed beads are extruded by machine and some, (Miyuki delicas) look like little tubes.

Furnace Glass Beads

Italian glass blowing techniques such as latticinio and zanfirico are adapted here to make beads. Furnace glass uses large decorated canes built up out of smaller canes, encased in clear glass and then extruded to form the beads with liner and twisting stripe patterns. No air is blown into the glass. These beads require a large scale glass furnace and annealing kiln for manufacture.

Lead Crystal Beads

Lead crystal beads are machine cut and polished. Their high lead content makes them sparkle more than other glass, but also makes them inherently fragile.

Molded Glass Beads

These were (and are) made in the Czech republic, in what was once called Bohemia. Thick rods (20cm?) are heated to molten and fed into a rube goldbergian contraption that stamps the glass, including a needle that pierces a hole. The beads again are rolled in hot sand to remove flashing and soften seam lines. By making canes (the glass rods fed into the machine) striped or otherwise patterned, the resulting beads can be more elaborately colored than seed beads. One `feed' of a hot rod might result in 10--20 beads, and a single operator can make thousands in a day.

Wound Glass Beads

Probably the earliest true glass beads were made by the 'winding' method.

Glass at a high temperature high (enough to make it workable , or "ductile") is stretched around a solid core such as a metal wire or mandrel. The wire is treated with some compound to prevent the bead sticking to it, called "bead release." While still hot, the wound bead may be further shaped by manipulating with tools and paddles, by pressing or rolling it on a hard surface like marble (called "marvering"), or by rolling it in a mold.

And while still hot, or after re-heating, the surface of the bead may be decorated with fine straws of colored glass. These are called lampworked beads.

More Glass Beads

There are just so many types of glass beads that they just won't all fit nicely into any one kind of categorization. That being the case, what follows are just more types of glass beads, not necessarily falling into any of the categories above.

Indian Glass Beads

These just denote that they are made in India. And the varieties of beads that are produced in India are wide and endless.

Czech Beads

(aka Czech Republic Beads)
The former Czechoslovakia was the largest manufacturer of glass beads in the mid-nineteenth century.

Ghanaian Powder Glass Beads

These are also known as: Dry Powder Glass Beads or sand-cast beads.  These beads originate from Ghana, Africa.  They are made from scrap glass (like soft drink bottles) which is finely crushed, layered, coloured, put into a mold and fired.

The technique in Ghana originated in the 16th century.

There is yet another method of making powder-glass beads.  It starts with finely grounded glass.  Without the use of molds, the glass fragments are bound together with saliva or gum arabic.  This paste is then spread over a grass stem or bottle core.  After fusing in an over, the beads are usually rolled in other fragments to create colourful designs.

Summary

Even though it may appeal to some to know the various 'technical' names of these beads, today where more and more creative bead artisans are flourishing, the distinction between one type of bead and another is no longer clear cut. It is also becoming increasingly difficult, if not impossilbe, to be able to visually distinguish one type of bead from another.

The most important thing though still remains how the various beads are creatively employed rather than knowing what they are individually called.

Hematite Beads

Hematite Beads

magnetic and non-magnetic beauties

Popular Beads with Metaphysical Meanings

Today, hematite beads are attaining a high level of popularity, especially in the jewellery creative world.

Not only are they very pretty to look at when polished, not only do they hold the traditional symbolic meanings .. but now they come to us in a plentitude of shapes & sizes & Colours! And with the introduction of Magnetic hematite beads, they now can do what no other beads can do & jewellery makers all over the world are coming up with amazingly creative & popular ways to accessorized ourselves.

Hematite

Hematite (Fe2O3) is a naturally occurring iron oxide that is reddish to brown to black in colour. It is composed of splendid rhombohedral crystals that are very heavy and cold to the touch. silvery, shiny opaque stone. This is the stone that looks like it could be metal. Genuine hematite is heavier than most stones and seems cold when you first touch it.

This mineral can also be cut and polished to yield a relatively inexpensive semi-precious gemstone. It can also be polished to such a high sheen that long ago they were used as mirrors. Hematite is made into bracelets, necklace, rings and ornamental figures.

Metaphysical Meanings

This stone is often used as worry beads. It was also believed that it had some protective powers so that in the old days, warriors used to rub their bodies with it in the belief that it would protect them.

Hematite is believed to deepen the connection between spirit and body, and so helps prevent someone from being easily affected or influenced by other people's negative emotions. The reflective quality of the stone symbolizes its ability to help deflect the emotions of others.

Lampwork Beads

Lampwork Beads

ingeniously wound into little masterpieces

The creation of lampwork beads is like a labour of love and an artpiece in itself. Lampworking is actually an ancient Greek art of creating glass beads. Each lampworked bead can consist of layers upon layers of glass, shaping colours to achieve desired effects and images.

Lampwork beads is a variant of the wound glass bead making technique. Lampworking is very labor intensive.

Historically ..
In the Venetian industry, where very large quantities of beads were produced in the 19th century for the African trade, the core of a decorated bead was produced from molten glass at furnace temperatures, a large-scale industrial process dominated by men. The delicate multicolored decoration was then added by people, mostly women, working at home using used an oil lamp or spirit lamp to re-heat the cores and the fine wisps of colored glass used to decorate them. These workers were paid on a piecework basis for the resulting lampworked beads.

Modern lampwork beads are made by using a gas torch to heat a rod of glass and spinning the resulting thread around a metal rod covered in bead release. When the base bead has been formed, other colors of glass can be added to the surface to create many designs. After this initial stage of the beadmaking process, the bead can be further fired in a kiln to make it more durable.

In Modern Times ..
Modern beadmakers use single or duel fuel torches, so `flameworked' is replacing the older term. Unlike a metalworking torch, or burner as some people in the trade prefer to call them, a flameworking torch is usually "surface mix"; that is, the oxygen and fuel (typically propane, though natural gas is also common) is mixed after it comes out of the torch, resulting in a quieter tool and less dirty flame. Also unlike metalworking, the torch is fixed, and the bead and glass move in the flame. American torches are usually mounted at about a 45 degree angle, a result of scientific glassblowing heritage; Japanese torches are recessed, and have flames coming straight up, like a large bunsen burner; Czech production torches tend to be positioned nearly horizontally.

Miracle Beads

Miracle Beads

the glowing choice

Miracle beads, also known as Magic Beads, are super-intriguing because they seem to glow in natural light. They also have the optical illusion of having a bead within a bead. Hence the name of these beads.

These magic beads are a form of plastic beads. They are normally very bright and made from some form of fiberglass material. The bead is sprayed repeatedly with a reflective material and finished with an outer clear coating. It is these layers that create the tantalizing illusion of a bead within a bead. It is also what makes the beads seem to glow in natural light.

Originally these beads came from Japan but these days, they can be produced from any country. It is not unusual that they are still often called "Japanese Miracle Beads"

Mother of Pearl Beads

Mother Of Pearl Beads

Nature's own Iridescence comes to our Jewelry Making

Mother of Pearl beads shine with their own nature-endowed iridescence.

What is Mother of Pearl?

Mother of Pearl (MOP) is the iridescent substance that forms the lining of the shells of some fresh-water and some salt-water mollusks. MOP is also know as nacre.

Like the pearl it is a secretion of the mantle, composed of alternate layers of calcium carbonate and conchiolin.

• pearl oyster, found in warm and tropical seas, chiefly in Asia
• freshwater pearl mussels, which live in many rivers of the United States, Europe, and Asia
• abalone of California, Japan, and other Pacific regions

Many people often wonder what is the difference between Mother of Pearl beads and Shell beads. Mother of Pearl is derived from the inner lining of some shells and it has a natural luminance to it. Shell beads however could be from any shell (like clam) and can be made from the other layers of the shell or even from the whole shell.

Background Facts

The term "Mother of Pearls" was coined by the 15th century Europeans. They literally meant it to denote that this was the best and the mother of all pearls. It is easy to understand why it should have earned such a prestigious name: many mother of pearls can look absolutely breath-taking under various lighting conditions. Mother of pearl can have captivating iridescent, shimmering rainbow colours often thought to be reflecting of the shifting colours of the ocean beds.

Mother of Pearl is often associated with June birth dates. So if you are thinking of making some fantastic jewelry pieces for someone born in the month of June, you would not go amiss by getting some glorious Mother of Pearl beads. They bespeak of class and luminance.

Uses

Mother of Pearl is widely used and glamorizes many facets of our lives. It is often used as inlay for jewellery boxes, mirrors, home decor accessories, tableware, and much more. It is definitely used in Jewelry Making and Craft work. Watch faces have been adorned with Mother of Pearl. And without a doubt, there is now an every growing of Mother Of Pearl Beads and other jewelry findings. The variety is ever growing and continues to inspire many to higher levels of creativity.

Even from olden times, mother of pearl has been valued and was used to make a great range of luxury items. Perhaps the most notable and widespread use of these were as Mother Of Pearl buttons. Today such buttons can still be found even though they have largely been replaced by plastic, glass, and metal buttons. Many prestigious clothing names still use mother of pearl buttons for their top range clothing.

In jewelry making, Mother of Pearl beads and other shell beads have recently made a bold and widely welcomed reappearance. Today, it is not only the glorious colours and inner glow that makes the beads and jewelry findings from Mother of Pearl so popular, but also the growing variety and shapes that are being produced.

Plastic + Acrylic Beads

Plastic Beads and Acrylic Beads

Exploding variety, shapes, and colours

Here we will use the term "Plastic Beads" and "Acrylic Beads" interchangeably as they are often used to denote the same thing. Plastic based beads can come in many shapes and colours.

The unique & wonderful characteristic about these types of beads is that they can be easily dyed, whereby the dyed colour is absorbed into the plastic. Hence plastic based beads are increasingly a source of fantastic & vibrant colours. And because they are also generally much more economical than glass or crystal beads, they are very popular alternative in creating all forms of costume jewellery.

A modern day and increasingly popular plastic bead is the glowing Miracle Bead.

Seed + Bugle Beads

Seed Beads and Bugle Beads

The many types and sizes of Seed Beads

There are many types and sizes of seed beads. Below is information that will be useful in your wanderings in the delicate and delightful world of these petite beads.

Types of Seed & Bugle Beads

Bugle Beads

These are small beads that are tube-shaped and long; coming in a multitude of lengths.

Charlotte Beads

These are seed beads with facet cuts, giving them sparkle. The more cuts/facets - the more the sparkle.

Delicas

(aka Japanese cylinder beads)
Delicas are precision-made, perfectly cylindrical size 11 beads. Delicas have a relatively large hole vis-a-vis its small size - making them light. This means you get more beads per gram! Also, because of their relative lightness, they are ideal for bead-weaving projects.

Rocailles

This was originally used to describe a round, silver-lined bead with a square hole.

However today, the term rocaille refers to all round seed beads; regardless of the shape of the hole. Rocaille beads are generally not totally uniform - adding to its interest & appeal.

Sizes of Seed Beads

There is no general agreement on how these beads are measured. Generally, they are measured by their diameter (i.e. perpendicular to the direction of the hole). The larger the see beads number, the smaller the bead. For example, size of 14/o is smaller than 11/o.

As a general rule of thumb, through experimentations, a 11/o size gives about 11 beads strung along a 20mm length. (That could vary depending on the variations in the bead and the source of origin of the beads).

Based on this rule of thumb, the following table gives you a good, close approximation to the size of a bead based on it's diameter measurement.

Spacer Beads + Rondelles

Spacer Bead and Rondelle

when beautiful spacing is important

Spacer Beads

They are also alternatively know as filler beads as often times, they are used to fill up the length of a finished jewellery piece that may be using other more expensive or elaborate beads.

Rondelle beads are also often used in the same capacity as filler beads.

Rondelle Bead

Also known as roundel bead or simply as rondelle or roundel.

Rondelle bead is sometimes also incorrectly spelt as "rondell" or "rondel" - which are correct words in themselves but do not refer to the rondelle beads in the jewelry making world.

Rondelle bead is a subset of the spacer/filler beads as they sometimes serve the same function.

The word "roundelle" or "roundel" refers to the shape - a shape that is not a perfect ball, but rather a flattened ball or saucer shape.

Rondelle beads can come as clear crystal discs, or encircled with chanel-set diamonds or rhinestones. There are also rondelles made from gemstones, rhinestones, metals, hematite, crystal, glass, bone, etc. They are all called "rondelle" due to its shape. However you will also find similar flattened beads like these that are square or triangular. The square ones are called "squaredelle" but very often, they are just lumped together under the category "rondelles". And even though the roundel may be called "roundel bead", when shopping for them, you will often find them under (Jewelry) Findings rather than in the Beads section

Special Rondelle Beads

Many new, fancy, and delightful rondelle beads are making their way into the market. These can really something extra to your finished items.

Swarovski Beads

Incomparable Swarovski Beads

The King of Quality, Desirability, and Brilliance

The uncompromising high standards of the Swarovski beads has made them the high benchmark against which all other beads are compared.

Swarovski products cover a full gamut of high quality items. In the jewelry making world, it is best known for its superb Crystal beads, followed closely by its array of Pearl beads. We highly recommend ClearlyChosen online store as a source of Swarovski beads & findings as a genuine Swarovksi® distributor who offers very reasonable and affordable prices. ClearlyChosen Product Library is also a vast source of information and details on the fabulous Swarovski Crystallized™ Elements product range.

Swarovski is the world's undisputed leading manufacturer and supplier of brilliant cut crystals. Its uncompromising high quality has been lavishly used in the famous creations of fashion luminaries such as Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino and Roberto Cavalli, and many other top designers around the world.

Daniel Swarovski was the founder of the company over a 100 years ago and his philosophy in product perfection, innovation, leading-edge research, creativity are continued in the company's line of diverse products today.

Despite it comparative cost, Swarovski crystals remain unrivalled in their popularity as generation after generation look to Swarovski for perfection in cut & shine. The lead content (about 32% to maximise light refraction), which gives crystals their sparkle, is usually higher than in any other crystals offered, giving it the AAA quality.

Wood Beads

Wood Bead

Natural and Enduring Beads

Wooden beads, or sometimes referred to simply as Wood Beads, are made of wood (duh!). They can come in various shapes like round, cube, oval, spiral, barrel, rectangular and that of various flowers, animals, leaves, etc. Wood beads are also available as wood dangles.

The beads have natural wood color but can be artificially colored, lacquered, painted, carved, burnt, &/or embossed.

Common wood used for making wooden beads are acacia, oak, pear tree, bamboo, pine, teak, and rose wood.

Because they are made from a natural product, variations in sizing, coloration, grain & texture is not uncommon and is often part of its overall attraction.

Wooden beads are perhaps one of the most unobtrusively versatile beads around. They have been used for placemats, bags, bag handles, macrame work, jewellery, curtains, apparel emblishments, etc.

Bails

Necklace Bail and Pendant Bail

Just the way to hang your charms and pendants

There are many types of bails, from the very simple snap-on necklace bails to the very elaborate and fanciful larger bails. The snap-on bails are the simplest to use and are the most common and popular. They merely open up, clipping onto the ring or loop of your pendant and then onto the necklace chain itself.

Other types of bails could include the triangle bail, the pinch bail (prong bail) which when large enough, could most attractively be used as a bead-hugger for a treasured, focal bead.

Nowadays, there are also the very lovely reusable bails that have a magnetic fastener and occasionally with an extra loop on the bail itself so that you can attach further beads, charms, or dangles from the bail itself.

Bead Caps

Bead Caps

beautifying your beads

Bead Caps

Bead caps are occasionally referred to as Bell Caps.

In jewellery-making, they are most often used to enhance a bead or stone. They can be used to 'cap' just one side of the bead or both. They are also often used to cap the end of a string of beads, as in a necklace, just before the clasp or hook. No matter where you use the beadcaps, they will add a distinct detail and texture to your design.

What size should I use?

Users often wonder what size bead-cap to use for their beads. Should you use a larger cap than your bead, or a smaller size? There is no general consensus among the jewelry makers. Some feel that using a larger bell cap will either overwhelm the bead itself or cover most of the bead. Some prefer using a bell cap that is smaller than the bead itself so that it 'sits' on the bead rather than covering it.

Personally I think it depends on the overall look of your final design. I must admit that I generally using a smaller size ~ sometimes just a size smaller (e.g. using a 7mm diameter bead cap for a 8mm bead) to a size very much smaller (e.g. using a 3 mm bead cap for a 8 mm bead). It all depends on the final look and what the cap looks like on the bead.

The best advice is to try various sizes to ascertain various looks. You just never know till you do!!

These days, the bead caps come in such mouth-watering variety and sizes .. from very small ones to long large ones. They are also available in a number of colors & finishes.

Humans wear a cap at their graduations. So when you cap your beads, they have graduated as well ... to something even more beautiful!!

Bead Tips + Calottes

Bead Tips & Calottes

for a truly professional finish

Bead Tips

• Charlotte Crimps
• Calottes
• Clam Shell Crimps
• Bead Tips
• Clamp-on Bead tips
• Clamshell Knot Concealers
• Crimp Covers

These types of crimps are used to attach a fastener at the end of your work. They give a professional look to the finish of your work. They can also be an easy way to attach several strands of beads to your fastener.

Even though most of these terms are used interchangeably, the purist will say that there is a distinction between a calotte crimp vs. a clamshell crimp.

Most people would not make a lot of distinction between these variations as far as their names are concerned but how you would use them in finishing your work is a bit different.

Calotte crimp - is side-opening with no holes.

Clam shell crimp - opens at the end and has a hole in the fold-section.

Cabochon

Cabochon

An ingenuous cut that highlights your stone

A cabochon is also sometimes spelt as cabouchon. It is sometimes referred to as just a cab. And sometimes it is incorrectly spelt as cabochan. So what is a cabochon?

Cabochon, traditionally, was a gemstone that had been shaped and polished, but not facetted. Nowadays, it also comes in other materials like cat's eye (optic fiber) and polymer clay.

Cabochon also refers to a method of cutting .. namely cutting a bead or gemstone with a convex, polished, rounded surface without any facets. It also normally has a flat bottom. The "en cabochon" (also called cabbing) cut is more often applied to opaque gems than transparent stones. (Faceting is only normally applied to transparent stones, most notably, diamonds). In fact, opaque, asteriated, iridescent, opalescent, or chatoyant stones are very suited to having an "en cabochon" cut as the cut brings out the interesting features of these types of stones. The stones that fall into these category includes garnet, jasper, bloodstone, moonstone, cat's eye, star ruby, and sapphire.

Particularly with cat's eye, the domed shape of a cabochon cut brilliantly highlights the star or eye of the fiber optic bead; which would not be visible in a facetted cut.

The back of a normal cabochon-cut stone is flat, but with some stones, it may be hollowed out to lighten the colour. The bottom is either polished or sanded. A flat back makes working and setting the stone easy.

Though the cabochon form of cutting is frequently used for opaque and translucent stones, it is also very effectively used for transparent materials that contain too many inclusion to yield a good facetted stone. Coloration and patterning provide the major interest in such stones.

The cabochon form of cutting is simple but it can totally transform the look of a piece of rock, bringing out the magic of unique shapes and lines in the rock.

The most common shape of a cobochon stone is traditionally oval but a cabochon can come in a variety of shapes - ovals, rounds, teardrops, diamonds, squares. Some jewelers cut their cabochons in irregular shapes which are designed to showcase certain features of the individual rocks.

The cut may also vary in size from quite small, for use in earring and rings, to very large, in the form of a centerpiece on a necklace or brooch. A rock which has been cut into a cabochon may be described as en cabochon, or it may just be called a cabochon.

Clasps - types of

Jewelry Clasps

Oh so many ways to get hooked!

Clasps are jewelry fasteners that you can use to connect/end off your bracelets or necklaces. There are a huge variety of jewelry fasteners for different situations or just for different decorative purposes.

Jewelry clasps are not just functional components used to securely connect two ends of a necklace or other piece of jewelry. The purely functional ones are there for function only, with a subdued appearance that keeps them from overpowering the jewelry. Others are bold, stunning, &/or decorative and are used in innovative way as part of the jewelry's integral design. When you are producing high-end jewelry with precious metals and more expensive beads, you will need clasps and fasteners that fit the top-end of the market. It is always unwise to expend good money for top-quality beads and then take the risk of using lower-end clasps which would detract from the final value and look of your finished piece.

Some types of clasps are more secure than others and some are more difficult to open and close without help from another person. Below are selection of clasps with their accompanying descriptions.

Box Clasps

The box clasp is a method of connecting two ends of a chain. One end has a box/housing with an opening which is notched/grooved on the top of the box. The other end has a flat piece of metal (the tongue) which has been folded over to form a spring/lever. The folded metal spring or lever slips into the hole in the box with the end of the lever sticking out. The compressed spring holds the two ends in place. It is released by pressing the two ends of the lever together. Though not always, it is not uncommon for the connection to be reinforced by a figure 8 catch.

Hook & Eye Clasps

Another very common and simple clasp is the Hook & Eye clasp. You can easily make this yourself with some wire or buy them pre-made. This type of clasp is made up of a simple hook on one side and an “eye”. The picture here shows the eye shaped like a figure “8” but it can just be any shape to which the hook can catch to to secure the jewellery piece. These types of clasps range from very simple to very ornate. These types of clasps are available for single or multi strand designs. It is best to use these types of clasp with heavier pieces of jewelry. The gravity on the weight of the jewellery will better help to keep the clasp closed during wear.

Lobster Clasp (aka Parrot Clasp)

These are also commonly referred to as Lobster claw claps or Parrot clasps (but don't ask me why coz I don't know .. yet! I am guessing it has something to do with the look and shape of a parrot's beak.)

They kind of look like the claw of a lobster. This is one of the most popular and secure of clasps. So, if you have an extra heavy piece of jewelry, they are your best bet. These fasteners use tension from a spring-loaded mechanism to keep the clasp securely closed. The claw catches a jumpring, loop, or a link on a chain on the other end of the piece of jewellery.

They come in many different finishes & sizes. These days, you can even find fun-shaped lobster clasps like heart-shaped, dolphin, etc.

Magnetic Clasp

Magnetic clasps are a relatively new addition to the range of clasps available .. and are definitely one of my favourites. They are easy to put on & take off and are certainly very popular with the older generation because there is so much less fumbling to do. They are also a god-send for people with arthritic fingers.

Read more about Magnetic Clasps ..

S Hook / S Clasps

This was definitely one of the most popular types of clasps, especially before the advent of the more elaborate and fanciful clasps that we have available to us today. It can range from very simple to very ornate.

It can also be easily made using just pliers & thick wire. This type of clasp has been around for a long time and is a certainty that it will be around for a long time yet to come. They are easy to add to any jewellery piece and is also extremely easy for the wearer.

Spring Ring Clasp

Spring ring clasp uses a spring-loaded mechanism that opens and closes around a loop or jumpring. The spring ring is opened when the arm of the clasp is pulled backwards. Though the most prevalent and common shape is a round spring ring clasp, they now come not only in a huge variety of sizes and colours but also in delightful fancy shapes.

Toggle Clasps

These types of clasps are ever popular. They come in the most fantastic of designs & styles. And they are very easy to use. When buying toggles, make sure that you look at the length of the T-bar that will fit in the other piece. If it's tiny and has little overlap, it's going to fall off. Toggles work exceptionally well on necklaces too and many necklaces are designed with a fancy toggle in Front of the necklace as an alternative focal point.

Read more about Toggle Clasps ..

Slide Lock Clasps

Also known as Tube Bar Clasp, based on its specific closing mechanism. One side of the tube grooved while the other side is slotted. To fasten this clasp, you slide the 2 pieces together and they will lock in place.

These fasteners are also available with a magnetic feature, making it an even more secure fastener.

Magnetic Clasps

Magnetic Clasps

Looks Great and a Life-Saver to Boot!

Having difficulty fiddling with tiny clasps and hooks and springs? Then magnetic clasps will put a big smile on your face and keep you fashionable all at the same time.

Magnetic-clasps are a relatively recent innovation but they are making massive headway into the hearts of jewelers - artisans and wearers - alike.

The ease-of-use of the magnetic clasp enables everyone including elderly people, sufferers of arthritis, or those with painful fingers to adorn their jewelry easily and effortlessly.

A magnetic fastener consists of 2 pieces of magnets in the clasp which literally spring together to 'fasten' that piece of necklace or bracelet. Normally the magnets are fairly strong which ensures that the jewelry piece will not come apart easily or accidentally.

As its popularity grows, the manufacturers and supplies of these clasps have come up with more and more innovative and beautiful designs. They are no longer just functional but are sometimes so beautifully designed that they can form part of the integral beauty of a created piece.

Do not just pull the magnets apart when opening a magnetic clasp. This will weaken the magnets over time. Rather, open the clasp as if you were snapping a piece of pretzel.

It has been long believed by many and studies have also shown that magnets may be therapeutic. They may be effective in alleviating pain and discomfort in the hands and body. However magnetic findings &/or beads are not intended to be sold as medical devices nor are they meant to replace/supplement a doctor's care or prescribed treatment.

You should never use magnets if you are pregnant, wearing a pacemaker, defibrillator, or any other implanted electro-medical device. Keep magnets away from computer disks, monitors, videotapes, cassette tapes, and credit cards as the magnetic fields can interfere with or damage such devices.

"Clever Clasps" as aired on television, are a form of magnetic clasps. However some customers, though finding the Clever Clasps to be effective, have also found them to be overly heavy or bulky. There are many other magnetic clasps that are coming on the market that do not have that bulk problem but instead can offer a whole range of styles, colours, finishes, and shapes.

Toggle Clasp

Toggle Clasp

What are Toggles? Usage & Storage Tips

Toggle clasp (also known as "toggle") is a two-piece clasp that is attached to opposite ends of a piece of jewelry. One section of the clasp has an open center (round, square, oval, or some other shaped-opening). The other half is a T-bar that attaches to the components at the other end. You insert the "T" into the hole which holds the worn jewelry in place.

Toggles that have square or oval openings/holes are easier to get on and off, and are also more secure, than round ones.

Toggle clasps are one of the most popular jewelry closures/jewelry clasps around - both for their functionality and for their contribution to the overall design of the piece of jewelry. They are very easy to put on and take off - which is always helpful when you don't want to or can't fiddle with clasps that have little spring mechanisms. They can be also very sturdy and very attractive.

These kinds of clasps are widely used to secure bracelets, anklet, and necklaces, but jewelry artisans also incorporate them into their necklace designs. They are also great as "secure point" in a lariat. And if you have an especially interesting or attractive toggle, then in the design of your necklaces, the clasp can be designed to rest to the side or at the bottom of pendants, rather than at the back.

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How to Finish with a Toggle Clasp

Always make the end-side of the jewellery where the toggle-bar is going to be, is a bit longer and narrower than what you normally might have with other types of clasps. With toggles, you will always need a bit of extra length to maneuver the T-bar through the opening of the other end of the toggle when putting on & taking off. Also make sure that the beads right near the T-bar are not so large that they would hinder the movement of the T-bar through the hole/opening of the toggle.

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Purchase & Storage of Toggle Clasps

It is always important to buy toggle clasps as sets. Sets of toggles are designed to go together. Sometimes when the T-bar is off by even 1mm, the whole clasp might not work right or be sufficiently secure.

Which also means that when you are storing your Toggle clasps, always ensure you store them as sets so that you don't get confused later when you are ready to use them.

Connectors

Jewelry Connectors

many beautiful ways of linking your chains & findings

Amazing Jewelry Connectors

The term "jewelry connector" is relatively modern in its popularity and general acknowledgement. They are also variously called as "link connectors", "sliders", or just "connectors".

In large, the emergence and recognition of this term and what it means has been due to the huge & ever-expanding offerings in this line and the simultaneous demand for these types of jewellery findings.

The term is both precise & vague. Precise because that is exacting what these jewelry findings do ~ let the jeweller connect different bits and pieces together, whether they be from link to link, beads to link, charms, etc. They are undeniably extremely useful as connectors and the plethora of varied designs out there today has enabled jewellery makers to be able to "connect" in really beautiful ways.

However the term "connectors" is vague because it is a very generic term that covers a whole gamut of styles, of shapes, of materials. In fact, by the very definition of the term connector, many other jewelry findings falls easily into this category, including jump & split rings, clasps & toggles, sliders.

There is no denying how diversified, varied, and ever-amazing the varieties of connectors there are. And equally undeniable it that at some stage you too will want and need connectors for your creations ~ not just for utilitarian practical purposes but that it will add immensely to the beauty of your designs.

Swarovski channels are also a form of connectors. In the words of Swarovski, "(channels) are single Round or Fancy Stones without foiling fitted with a metal ring around the girdle of the stone. This gives the channels its typical feature: the viewer is able to look 'through' the Round or Fancy Stones."

They can have more than one loop as a connecting-point.

Cord Ends

Cord Ends

ending leather cords the right way

What are Cord Ends?

Cord ends are also known as Thong Ends, Coil Ends, End-Coils, or Crimp Coil ends. Here we use these terms synonymously and interchangeably.

Coil Ends are generally used with leather cords. To put a clasp on leather, you will generally need three pieces of items:

• two coil ends
• and a hook, latch, lobster, or other clasp

How to use Cord Ends

Putting a coil end on a piece of leather requires a little practice, but it is not too hard.

1. put a little glue on the end of the piece of leather (anything except super glue).
   
   Leather has natural oils and can be a bit oily.  So it could may slip out of the coil end without the help of some glue.
   
   
2. put the leather into the coil end.
   Twist the cord slightly as you push it all the way into the coil end. The ease of this step usually varies because cord widths & textures can vary.
   
   
3. Place the coil end in between the jaws of an ordinary pair of flat-jawed pliers; using the broader end of the pliers (i.e. away from the tip of the pliers & nearer the joint of the plier). Crimp down the first part of the coil end (the end away from the coil-end-ring).
   Some people crimp down the first half of the coil end, others crimp down the 1st or first few coils (the end away from the coil-end ring)..
   
   
   Do not crimp down so hard that you cut the leather.
   To test the secureness of the crimp, hold the coil with one hand and pull on the leather cord with the other.
   The cord should expand a little bit which indicates that the coil end is securely crimped.
   However if the leather starts to pull out, you need to crimp down again a bit harder.
4. Do the same for the other end of the leather cord.
   
   
5. Note that there is a ring at the end of each coil end. You may want to attach a clasp to one of these rings at one end of your coil-ended leather cord. At the other end of your cord, you can choose to leave the coil end as is so that you use the ring of the coil end itself, or attach a jump/split ring to the coil-end-ring at the other end.

Thickness of leather to size of cord end
For 2mm cord, it's better to use the 1-2mm, rather than the 3-4mm cord end. If the cord is too large for the opening of the coil end, shave part of it down with a razor blade.

If you have too thin a leather in comparison to the coil end you want to use, you can fold over the end of the leather cord before inserting it into the coil end.

At the end of the coil is a ring. Ideally, you want to attach a clasp to one side, and either use the ring on the other side as is, or attach a jump or split ring to it. The Lanyard Clasp is great because you can slide it right onto the coil-ring. With other clasps, you will probably need a jump or split ring to connect the coil-ring to the clasp. The concern here is that the coil-ring is somewhat brittle. If you move the end of the ring too far, in order to open the ring up so you can slide a clasp onto the wire, sometimes this coil-ring will break. Be careful.

Crimp Beads

Crimp Beads

for a Professional Finish

Crimp Bead

Crimp beads are used with all beading wires to secure the start and finish of the strand. The wire is threaded through the crimp bead, around the clasp loop and then back through the crimp bead. The crimp bead is then crushed flat (using flat nose or crimp pliers).

Crimp beads can also be used on each side of a “floating” bead to hold it in place on flexible beading wire (such as Soft Flex or Beadalon), transparent beading thread or cord.

Crimp beads can come as either beads (round beads) or as tubes: it is a matter of preference which you choose. The crimp tube is generally more popular as they are much easier to secure. Crimp beads can be used in the place of a bead tip (aka charlotte crimp) or in addition to the charlotte crimp in order to help keep the knot inside of the charlotte crimp.

Read about: How to use crimp bead to finish wire or thread.

Crimp Covers

Crimp Cover

for a Super Professional Finish

Crimp Cover

Crimp covers (or also called crimp bead covers) are great little inventions. They finish you crimps so that they look like little beads. So professional .. and so easy.

A lot of jewelry makers do not like the crimped-bead look when it comes to finishing their jewelry pieces. Now with the crimp cover .. it ends up looking just like a lovely, tiny bead .. instead of a crimped look.

You will normally need a crimp cover that is just a little larger than your crimp bead or tube.

The industry norm on stating measurements is by the closed diameter. So if you see a crimp cover that has a size stated as 3mm, that usually means that it is 3mm in diameter when closed.

Read how to use Crimp Covers for a perfect finish.

Earring Findings

Earring Finding

how beautiful can your earrings be?

The Bountiful Word of Earring Findings

Earring finding are often also classified as "earring component". Both are synonymous generic industry term which covers all the bits and parts you would use for making earrings. They include earring chandeliers, ear studs, ear posts, earring connectors, ear wires, and much more.

There is an endless variety of earring finding. Basically anything that you can use to make earrings or parts thereof can be classified under this umbrella term.

Earring Hooks

There are many types of earring hooks, in a variety of styles. They are all known as earring hooks though sometimes the terms are used interchangeably and synonymously with each other. They can also be specifically named, according to their styles or shapes.

Some common terms are:

• Earwires or ear wires
• Fish Hooks
• Shepherd hooks
• fleur de lis level back
• lever back
• kidney style

Earrings Posts

earring posts This earring finding consists of a metallic post that goes through the hole in the ear and is secured at the back of the ear, usually with a butterfly nut. Both the front of the post and the backing can come in a variety of styles

The stud in front can be plain, studding with gemstones, or have a wide range of decorative styles. The nuts can be the standard butterfly nuts, solid cones, or wider based nuts with intricate designs of their own.

Butterfly Nuts and Comfort Clutches

These are used on earring posts, behind the ear, to hold the earring in place. The standard, smaller ones are generally called butterfly nuts.

Comfort clutches are generally larger and are required for larger or heavier stud earrings. They provide more stability and will prevent the heavier earring from droop or being lop-sided when worn.

Ear Clips or Clip-ons and Screw-Ons

These are suitable for people who do not have pierced ears. They snap on or screw securely into place and usually have a loop below the clip to attach dangles and beaded jewelry.

Ear Threaders

Ear Threaders are also known as "Earring Threads", "Ear Threads", "Threader Earrings", "Earthreads", "Pull Through Earrings". They consist of fine and long pieces of chain with a thin, solid piece of metal (post) at one end. This is used to thread through your earring hole, with a piece of chain on each side of the ear. Ear threaders normally have a loop at one end to hold dangles and bead. Simple designs work very well with these earring findings as the chains themselves form eye-catching and interesting, free-swinging parts of your ear adornment.

Ear threaders come in various designs and materials. The two most popular and common ones are the Straight Ear Threader and the U-Top Ear Threader. The latter has a half-curve near the end which allows it to rest securely across the pierced ear hole. While providing more security, it is not length-adjustable like the Straight Ear Threader.

Ear Threaders are very comfortable to wear because, instead of having a hard, inflexible metal in your ear, you have a fine, flexible chain. The straight post is used to thread the earring through the ear, allowing you to easily lengthen or shorten the look of your earrings.

Earring Chandeliers

Chandelier earring findings are very interesting and often adds a professional feel to your work. The range of these earring components is awe-inspiring as they can range from very chic and simple, to elaborate pieces of artwork. The arrangements, embellishments, and designs that you can create with them is quite endless.

Earring Hoops

Earring hoops are most commonly round but they can come in any shape .. and size. Beads can sometimes be threaded directly onto the hoops, or hung from them. Metallic threads or chains can also be 'woven' onto the loops to create very glitzy and unusual creations.

French Wire

French Wire

Jewelry finding or Wire?

French wire is not really jewelry wire or threading material in the traditional sense. In fact, you are more likely to find them under 'Jewelry Findings' category than under wire or stringing materials.

Some of you may know this as 'gimp', 'gimp wire' or 'Some of you may know this as 'gimp', 'gimp wire' or 'bullion wire'.

Though it is still useful today, it is less well known. Many years ago, it was a very core, useful, and important component in jewelry making. Today, it is still a well-known and useful component for all those who are into pearl and other gemstone hand strung jewelry making. And it is also beginning to make a come-back in other areas of jewelry making as it definitely adds an added touch of professionalism.

Many years ago, there were less well-known nor easy way to smooth edges of the holes in beads. Gimp wire was then used to protect threads/stringing materials from the sharp edges of the beads at the clasp. Otherwise those edges would rub against the threads during wear and cut it.

Gimp wire is used not just to protect the threads from the sharpe edges of bead-holes but generally, to protect stringing threads from metal loops and jumprings, from fraying, and to give the finished article a more professional look.

French wire is from extremely fine coiled wire. At first glance, they look like a very smooth and closely linked fine chain. It is very delicate, soft, and flexible to the touch. They are most frequently used with silk threads and pearls. And mainly to finish off jewelry pieces between the crimp and the clasp and/or other metal components.

Simplest way of using French wire (gimp)

String your beads. Then the beading thread is taken through a suitable length of gimp, and immediately back through the bead(s) from where it came. Pull tight so that the gimp creates a 'metal loop' which can be used to attach your strung beads to jumprings or clasps.

Read another way on how to use French Wire/Gimp.

Jump Rings

Jump Rings and Split Rings

the core essentials of jewelry making

Jump Rings

A jumpring is a circular ring of metal. It can come "open" - i.e. unsoldered (more common) or "closed" - i.e. soldered closed. These types of jewelry findings are amongst one of the smallest of the many components used in jewelry making but are some of the most important because they help connect all those parts and pieces together.

Note: Jump ring is also sometimes spelt as "jumpring".

You can buy them from most jewelry suppliers but they are not hard to make for yourself either. They also work great for making chains and using as part of a clasp.

The round jumprings are the most common, and most people find them the most versatile.

However they come in a variety range of finishes (plating), even colours! And tho less common, they can come in many different shapes. They can be manufactured with different types of metals and in different gauges (thickness of the wire).

The stated size of a jump ring is by convention, the diameter of the entire jump ring, measured from its outer edges. The stated thickness is the size/gauge of the wire used to create the jumpring.

Tho jumprings are most often used to connect clasp to the main jewelry piece or different component pieces together, or to add a dangle to the creation, there is actually innovative, inventive, and other creative ways of using them ~ don't be limited by just using them as connectors!

Split Rings

Split Rings resemble little key rings. Like jump rings, they are used to connect link/rings or to hang things off chains, necklaces, bracelets, etc. With their double-loops, they are more secure than plain, unsoldered jumprings.

The stated sizing & thickness of a split ring follows the same convention as jump rings.

Where you would definitely choose a split ring over a jumpring, is when you need the linking-connector (i.e. the ring) to be very secure. For example, when you hang precious charms off an anklet, bracelet, or any other chain jewellery.

Also, split rings are preferable as ending-rings, i.e. at the end of a necklace or bracelet. The ending-ring is often used as the loop to which the clasp (like lobster clasp, or hook clasp) will latch onto to close off a piece of jewellery.

The reason why this is so is because split rings are much more secure than jump rings because the split rings have multi-loops per ring and so are many times stronger & less likely to be accidentally pulled open.

You will want to make sure that you do not spread the loops in the splitring too far apart as that will deform it somewhat. You may also find it is difficult when working with a lot of split rings, coz to open them, you may indeed split your fingernails! This is where the incredible Splitring Pliers come in. It will easily open a split ring so that you can insert your charm onto the split ring, or when you want to attach the split ring onto a chain, etc. The pliers are designed to open the split ring easily and efficiently.

Pins

Head Pins & Eye Pins

the core essentials of jewelry making

Head Pins

A headpin at its most basic, is a metal stick with a horizontal piece on the end. This piece helps beads stay onto the pin.

There are also decorative head pins which, instead of a flat horizontal piece, has a decorative stopper at the end. The stopper could be round, oval, heart-shaped, diamond-shaped, etc. These knob-endings can also sometimes be embossed with decorations and even with dangles.

Eye Pins

Eye pins have the same basic function as head pins, but instead of a horizontal piece on the end of the pin there is a loop. This is helpful when you want to add an extra dangle, e.g. to the end of an earring.

You can also make your own eye pins with the appropriate pliers like wire-looping pliers or even the roundnose/rosary pliers.

Both the head pins & eye pins are basic essential findings for jewelry making. They are used in many bead style earrings or for attaching beads to any type of jewelry piece. If you are into jewelry-making, you can't do without these!

Spacers

Spacers

Spacer Bars, Spacer Tubes, Spacer Beads, and Rondelles

Spacer Bar and Spacer Tube

Spacer Bars and Tubes are endlessly useful, functional, decorative .. and can add endless possibilities to your ultimate design. They come in all designs .. from the very ornate to the super-simplistic.

At its very basic functionality, it "spaces" out your beads. You may be using really expensive beads and you don't need or can't afford to fill out the entire design with the expensive beads. Using spacers, you can space them out ~ saves you money without marring your finished look.

Most artisans use the look of their chosen spacers to ADD to the distinctive look of their creations.

They are most often used in jewelry making for bracelets, necklaces, etc.

Spacer Bead and Rondelle

Spacer Beads

They are also alternatively know as filler beads as often times, they are used to fill up the length of a finished jewellery piece that may be using other more expensive or elaborate beads.

Rondelle beads are also often used in the same capacity as filler beads.

Rondelle Bead

Also known as roundel bead or simply as rondelle or roundel.

Rondelle bead is sometimes also incorrectly spelt as "rondell" or "rondel" - which are correct words in themselves but do not refer to the rondelle beads in the jewelry making world.

Rondelle bead is a subset of the spacer/filler beads as they sometimes serve the same function.

The word "roundelle" or "roundel" refers to the shape - a shape that is not a perfect ball, but rather a flattened ball or saucer shape.

Rondelle beads can come as clear crystal discs, or encircled with chanel-set diamonds or rhinestones. There are also rondelles made from gemstones, rhinestones, metals, hematite, crystal, glass, bone, etc. They are all called "rondelle" due to its shape. However you will also find similar flattened beads like these that are square or triangular. The square ones are called "squaredelle" but very often, they are just lumped together under the category "rondelles". And even though the roundel may be called "roundel bead", when shopping for them, you will often find them under (Jewelry) Findings rather than in the Beads section.

Special Rondelle Beads

Many new, fancy, and delightful rondelle beads are making their way into the market. These can really something extra to your finished items.

Chainmail for Newbies

Chainmail for Newbies

Chainmaille Basics - An Overview

You are here because you want to start on the exciting journey of chainmail-ing. Congratulations to you. But you might have tried before and there was just too much information, too much terminology, too much you were supposed to know .. and you gave up in frustration. Well this little Chainmail for Newbies is just for you. Forget all the other stuff. (You will pick them up as you go - even before you know it.) For now, this is all you need to know about chainmaille.

What is Chainmail?

In the simplest form, chainmail (aka chainmaille, maille, chain maille) is made of jump rings. How you link the jumprings together is called the weave. Each weave requires a number of jumprings going through other jumpring(s). To ensure that they all sit comfortably - not too loose and not too stiff - we need to ensure that the size of the jumprings used is suitable for that particular weave. This is where the AR (aspect ratio) of a jumpring becomes important to the chainmaille weave you are trying to create.

Basic Basic Chainmail Requirements

1. determine what weave you would like
2. then jumprings with what AR is usable

Let's just accept for now that there are a lot of weaves for you to look forward to. But for us to know what jumprings to get for any one weave, we need to understand ..

What the heck is Aspect Ratio?

In general jewelry making scenarios, we normally buy jump rings of a certain size. This, by convention, is the outer diameter of a ring. And though less frequently specified, we know that the jumprings are made of wire (normally but not necessarily round) which has a certain diameter.

In chainmail, these facts are no different. We just need to focus on different aspects of the same facts.

For chainmail weaves, we want to know the:

• WD (wire diameter) of the wire (which is used to make the jump ring) - also called the wire gauge
• ID (inner diameter) of the jumpring

With these two figures, we can work out the all important AR (aspect ratio) of the ring.

As alluded to, AR is all important in chainmaille. Getting the correct ring sizes determines how well, or if at all, your maille project will turn out.

Calculating AR

Let's say you buy jumprings that have:

• ID = 3mm
• WD = 0.8mm

So what is it's AR?

Wire Gauges

WD (wire diameter) is the wire gauge.

Whether you buy wire to make your own rings or you buy ready made jumprings, you will need to know the WD. Sometimes this is specified (by the seller) in gauge size or in inches or in millimeters. If specified in gauge size, you will need a wire gauge conversion table to make the conversion (into mm or inch) so that you can work out the needed AR.

Summary

1. Determine which chainmail weave you want to make. (See: Weaves List to start.)
2. Find the preferred AR for that weave.
3. Get/make the jumprings that have that (approximate) AR (aspect ratio).

Weaves List + ARs

Chainmail Weaves List

Weaves, AR, & Tutorials

There are many maille weaves out there: lots and growing. And with gradations of difficulty. It is difficulty to decide where to start, especially when you are a beginner chainmailler.

The following is but a short list which I will add to it over time. The list give a quick overview of (subjective) level of difficulty, the AR(s) required, and a quick peek of what the chainmail weave looks like. I have included links to tutorials that I found were clear and straightforward.

Thumbnail	Name	For	Category	AR Range	Min. AR	Preferred AR
	Camelot Tutorial from CGmaille	Beginner				2 rings: 6.6 3.5
	Byzantine Tutorial from M.A.I.L* Tutorial from The Lord Ring		European	3.32 - ∞		3.35-3.5
	CIR (Captive Inverted Roundmaille) Tutorial from CGMaille	Beginner
	European 4-1 (Euro 4-1) Tutorial from CGMaille* Tutorial from The Ring Lord	Beginner	European	3.0-5.5	2.9	3.3
	HP 3-1 (Half Persian 3-1) Tutorial from The Ring Lord* Tutorial from CGMaille	Beginner	Persian	3.9-4.3
	Inverted Round Tutorial from CGMaille	Beginner	European

References

• Listing of weaves - a pretty comprehensive list at M.A.I.L (Maille Artisans International League) with links to multiple tutorials for each weave
• Chainmaille Tutorials from CGMaille - beautiful graphics, clear tutorials with indications of levels of difficulty
• Chainmaille Tutorials with clear instructions and pictures (CGI) - hosted at The Ring Lord
• Weaves, Variants, Constructs & Units - definitely worth a look. Weaves list with images and recommended ARs. From CMB (chainmailbasket)
• Jewelry Weaves pictures from zlosk
• Chain Maille Weave Patterns - listing with pictures and short description from Phoenix In Chains

Euro 4-1

European 4-1 Weave

European Chainmail Weave

The European 4-1 weave is sometimes shortened to Euro 4-1 or even E4-1. It is most famous for being the weave used in European knights' armor.

Weave family: European

Level: beginner

AR Notes
AR Range: 3.0-5.5 (anything above 5 will be tricky)
Preferred AR: 3.3

I recommend Tutorial from CGMaille and much as I would like to, I won't even try to produce yet another tutorial for Euro 4-1. However you might find the following notes helpful to you and can be used in conjunction with the tutorial.

Tips on Euro 4-1

1) Prepare a set of closed and unclosed rings to speed up your work. This image shows the basic Euro 4-1 weave. With reference to the image, the gray "center" row - are all open rings (i.e. you start with the jump ring open and then close it as you finish each weave linkage)

2) Apart from Step 1 which takes on 4 closed rings (left), every subsequent steps takes on 2 closed rings (blue) (right).

And instead of placing 2 closed rings on one open ring then try to weave onto main piece (as most of the tutorials will instruct), you can weave the gray/open ring onto the main piece, then put the blue/closed rings on, then close up the gray/open ring.

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Samples of European 4-1 Weave

• bracelets done in Euro 4-1

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BEADING How To

BEADING How To

Beady Tips and Tricks

This section is for all kinds of methods and techniques you can employ with beads, crystals, stones, and gemstones in your projects. Beads can be used in jewelry making, clothing decoration, shoe embellishment, on bags, and in just about any imaginable field of endeavour.

Bead Embroidery on Fabric

Bead Embroidery

Beading on Fabric

You can use any fabric that you can get a needle through. Bead embroidery has been around for generations and is highly valued in the haute couture fashion world. Amongst the most renown wedding dress featuring beading on fabric is of course Princess Diana's wedding dress. Beads on fabrics look great not only on dresses, gowns and in fashion but also add that 'something extra' on bags, hats, shoes, belts, and even paper.

In the illustration below on Beading on Fabric, we show a fabric (that has designs on it) that can be further enhanced with bugle and seed beads. Combining beads with sequins really makes a fabric stand out. Small pearl beads adds tremendous value and distinction.

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Tools Needed:

• short beading needle
• beading thread
• bugle & seed beads

Steps: Bead Embroidery on Fabric

1) Thread the beading needle with about 1 meter of beading thread. Tie a knot at the other end of the thread. Thread the needle through the fabric, back to front, where you want to position the first bead.
2) Thread your first bead. Push the needle back through the fabric, front to back, slightly further along from where the thread came up and towards where you want the second bead. This spacing (between the in and out of the needle on the fabric) should be far enough to allow the bead to sit nicely on the fabric.
3) Continue to embellish the fabric in this way till your are happy with the look.

• you can add several beads at a time if you like
• to create areas of beadwork, you need to finish the thread off in one area and start a new threading at the next beadwork area.
• you can also use the same techniques for Bead Embroidery on Paper.

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Bead Embroidery on Paper

Bead Embroidery

Beading on Paper

Bead Embroidery on paper is a very interesting and rewarding craft, made more so by the diverse wealth of beautiful paper being produced. Just like beading on fabric, it is also possible to bead on paper - for card making, in scrapbooking, making books and album covers, wedding invitations, etc.

Paper that has pre-made holes in them are ideal for bead embroidery. These are paper that have 'machine embroidery' design. These papers already have holes in them and so makes it much easier to embellish the paper with beads and threads.

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Tools Needed:

• beading needle
• beading or cotton sewing thread that tones well with the paper you are going to use
• bugle & seed beads
• machine-embroidered paper (i.e. has holes already)

1) Thread the beading needle with about 1 meter of beading thread. Tie a knot at the other end of the thread. 2) Leave about 2 cm (½ inch) clear paper selvage edging (or enough paper to turn and cover edges of book or album). 2cm or more in from the paper edge, thread the needle through the paper, back to front - using one of the machined holes (if available). 3) Look carefully at the space between where your needle emerges and the next (machine) hole you want to put the needle back through. Estimate how many beads you can comfortably fit in that space between those 2 holes. Thread those number of beads and put the needle, front to back, into the next (machine) hole.

4) Bring the needle back up to the front in the next hole. Do as step above. You will now note that there is a gap between one line of beads and the next. If desired, you can fill this gap on the return journey, as in the next (optional) step. 5) (Optional) Continue as you have above till you get to the end of one row or aspect of the pattern. Remember not to work right to the edge of the paper but to leave a clear 2cm selvage. Turn your paper 180° and add beads in the same way as step above, to fill any gaps that have been left in the first round. 7) Continue with your bead embroidery on paper till you are satisfied with the final beaded look.

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Beading Stitches

BEADING STITCHES

Photos, How-Tos, tips, techniques on Beading Stitches

This will be a collection of some of the many beading stitches. There are many and varied and they can help you produce even more remarkable new creations by utilizing these skills.

Many of these techniques make use of seed beads and rocailles though once you have gotten the skill under your belt, you can use the same techniques with any bead of your fancy.

Samplers

Beading Stitches - Samplers

Pictorial Sampler of Various Beading Stitches

The purpose of this Beading Stitches Sampler Library is so that you can see what some of these stitches look like as well as how they could look different with different kinds of beads. I will be using a variety of beads, including varying qualities. The results should be both instructive and interesting. I may also employ contrasting thread color so that there is a chance of seeing the threading in the samplers.

11 Oct 09: This will be a growing of collection of pictorial samplers of various beading stitches. Please come back again for another visit as this Beading Stitches Library grows.

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Herringbone/Ndebele Stitch

This sampler is done up with bugle beads. Here you can see the Herringbone pattern quite clearly. The Herringbone stitch is also commonly known as the Ndebele Stitch.

This next Herringbone Stitch sampler is done using random colours and even slightly random sized round seed beads. Here the herringbone pattern is not as obvious.

Tubular Herringbone Stitch

Sample of bead caps done in Tubular Herringbone stitch. Beads are silver plated 2mm round metal beads and bugle beads.

The foundation row is in Ladder Stitch. And I ended the sampler using the Ladder Stitch as well.
Herringbone Stitch is quite a fun stitch to do.

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Peyote Stitch

Peyote stitch is one of the most popular stitches around. This sampler is done with mixed color seed beads of irregular sizes. You can see the up-down / zigzag pattern that is at the core of this stitch.

Another sampler with the same kinds of seed beads.

Peyote Stitch with Mid-way Increase

This next Peyote stitch sampler shows where there has been a mid-way increase causing the work to span outwards. The black beads are where the increase has taken place.

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Square Stitch

This is a quick sampler. I have deliberately used a slightly contrasting thread colour so I could see the threads after the sampler was done. Square Stitch over 15 stitches using China metallic gold and frosted black seed beads (available from ClearlyChosen stores)

This next Square Stitch sampler is done with multi-colors and uneven sized seed beads. As you can see, even with uneven sizes, one can produce quite attractive pieces.

At the time of writing, packs of these mixed coloured seed beads can be purchased from ClearlyChosen jewelry supplies store.

The square stitch is very easy and fun to do. Great for incorporating patterns and colours as all the beads are lined up vertically and horizontally. That makes graphing the pattern much easier.

Note however that you would want to have beads with slightly larger holes and/or finer needles ad the thread has to pass through each bead a few times.

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FINISHING How To

FINISHING Jewelry - How To

tips, techniques on jewelry making

How you finish your jewelry pieces, though usually not the most fun part of the project, is crucial to the overall quality and feel of your jewelry piece. After spending many hours and sleepless nights on your design and when the main (fun) part is completed, you might feel that you just want to get on with the next project. Many projects get left at this stage - i.e. unfinished. Or worse, you hurriedly throw in a clasp or toggle and hope no one will notice the lack of effort there. But they will.

So here are some tips and tricks on how to finish jewelry pieces and achieve a professional looking finish.

Crimp Bead to finish Wire

Crimp Bead

how-to finish wire or thread

Crimp bead, also know as French Crimp (which we will use interchangeably), is a small metal bead with thin walls and comparatively large holes. It is designed to be flattened with a crimp tool or crimping pliers. It is used to finish off wire or cord at the ends in lieu of unsightly knots and when used properly, give the jewelry a finished, professional look.

These crimps are most often used with beading wire but it can also very effectively be used with strong threads.

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Steps

• If you are cutting the length of wire you need ahead of time, allow at least 3-4 cm extra for the lengths you will need to attach the fastener to your jewelry piece using a french crimp.
• Only use a wire cutter to cut your wires; wires will destroy the edges of your scissors.

1) Thread your wire through a french crimp, and then through the loop on your fastener.  (Illustration here is shown using a barrel screw clasp.) Use 2 french cimps if you are using heavy beads.
2) Then thread the wire back through the crimp, forming a small loop that allows movement but small enough to be neat.  Flatten out your french crimp with a flat-nose plier or crimping pliers to firmly secure the crimp position. When you thread on your beads, slide them up towards your crimped end.  Thread the left-over wire into the beads to hide it.
3) When you have finished stringing on all your beads to your specific design, thread another french crimp at the other end, and do the same as above and thread the spare end of the wire into the beads so as to hide it from sight.

Crimp Cover - how to

Crimp Cover

how-to finish with crimp covers

Crimp Covers - a fairly new innovation - is easy and fun to use yet gives you a much smoother and seamless finish.

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Steps

1) After you have crimped your crimp bead/tube in place, you are ready for your crimp cover.
2) Place your crimp cover between the jaws of your pliers. Note: orientation of open jaw and open part of crimp are in the same direction.
3) Place the crimp cover over your crimped bead/tube and gently squeeze the crimp cover closed. Note: do not squeeze too hard or the cover will collapse.
4) Wolla! Your crimp is now inside the crimp cover and doesn't it just look like a lovely bead!

French Wire Finish

French Wire

Professional finish for hand-strung beads

French wire, also know as gimp, gimp wire, or bullion wire will give your hand strung beads and precious gemstones a professional finish as well prolongs it safety by decreasing wear and tear on the stringing threads. Our full article on French wire also gives a simple way of using this finely coiled gimp wire.

The technique below gives another and a more detailed step-by-step guide. Be sure to take note of the Tips below.

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Tools Needed

• strung beads, pearls, or gemstones
• gimp or french/bullion wire
• silk or other stringing threads
• crimp beads (french crimps)
• crimping pliers

Steps

1) After you have strung your beads, pass the one end of your thread through a crimp bead and a suitable length of French wire/gimp.  Then through the ring of your clasp. Do not try to pass the thread twice through the gimp. If you do the gimp wire will not form properly and you could end up with a mess.
2) Pass the thread back through the crimp bead and pull tightly.  The gimp should now look like a metal loop going through your clasp-ring. 3) (opt) Pass the thread through more beads for security. 4) Squeeze the crimp beads with crimping pliers to secure and fix the threads.  Cut off excess threading.
5) Do the same with the other side of your strung beads.

• Do a few practice runs in using this technique before applying it to a real piece of jewelry creation.
• After a few tries, you will get the hang of how much French wire to use and how tightly to pull to form the 'metal loop' with the gimp wire.
• It might be a good idea to wax or treat your thread to make things easier.

How To Antique Brass

How to Antique Brass

Vintage (looking) metals have become increasingly popular in jewelry making. The process of giving metal a vintage or antique look is variously called darkening, oxidizing, patinizing or antiquing.

Brass is the most common metal to undergo antiquing in jewelry making.

There are various ways to create antique brass which can be done at home. (You can also find out how to antique copper).

First: Clean the Brass

For you to be able to oxidize the brass so that you can quickly achieve a rich aged patina on the metal, raw brass must be used. However most brass components come with some protective varnish. And grease (like from fingers during handling) is also deposited on the surface. These must be removed thoroughly before the antiquing process begins.

To remove protective varnish

• Acetone, nail polish remover, or lacquer thinner will remove any protective varnish from the surface.
• If brass component is small, you can boil it in water for a few minutes.

To remove general grease and dirt

Clean brass component completely with any of the following:

• mild solution of water & vinegar or
• mild soap diluted in water or
• mixture of ammonia, mild soap, & water
• rub surface with alcohol

How to Darken/Oxidize/Antique Brass

Here is a collection of various methods that you can try out. Experiment with the various antiquing metals to discover your own favourite.

Ammonia Fumes

Suspend your brass items over ammonia that is in a covered jar, making sure that the brass components do not come into contact with the ammonia. You can use fishing line or nylon stocking to suspend the metal. Secure it to the bottle with rubber band or sticky tape on the outside. Then lid the jar.

This can take a few hours. Check on progress and determine when you are satisfied with the color changes.

Clorox

Soaking brass in Clorox (toilet bowl cleaner) will help dull the brightness and tone down the brassy, shinny tone without leaving a brown patina on brass.

Saltwater

Brush the brass items with saltwater. This is slower than brushing with vinegar but it produces a different patina - possibly a more "antiqued" look.

Vinegar; Brush or Spray with

Brush or vinegar over the entire surface of the brass items. Allow to dry and check results. Reapply and dry repeatedly till you get the patina colour you want. This method should give you a quick darkening of the brass.

Vinegar Vapors/Fumes

Suspend the brass items over vinegar and allow the fumes to oxidize the brass. You can suspend the items using nylon stocking, cheesecloth, or fishing lines over the vinegar (not in it). Cover the entire setup with a bucket or other container to prevent the fumes from escaping.

Commercial Products

This is a list of products that I have heard are good for antiquing brass.

• Patina Green Antiquing Solution (from company Moden Options) - can be used on copper, brass, bronze. For both indoors and outdoors. No special tools required. Water based.
  Unfortunately it seems that this product can only be gotten from misterart.com which is in USA and does not ship internationally.
• Jax Colorant Green Patina Quart - "produces a permanent, authentic, antique green finish on copper, brass, and bronze." (part of product description)
  
• Brass Darkening Solution - Brass darkening solution.Turns shiny brass finish into antique finish quickly. (Is likely to work on copper and bronze as well.)
  
  One (Australian) site that sells this is at Watson Brass.

Protecting the Antique Finish

After the antiquing process, you can allow the brass to age/oxidize naturally. Or you can (temporarily) seal the antique finish using beeswax. Prepared beeswax like Johnson's Wax can be applied directly using a clean. lint-free soft cloth.

You can also try floor wax or a clearcoat.

How to Antique Copper

How to Antique Copper

Vintage (looking) metals has become increasingly popular in jewelry making. The process of giving metal a vintage or antique look is variously called darkening, oxidizing, patinating or antiquing. Brass is probably the most common metal to undergo antiquing in jewelry making but antique copper look is also becoming more and more popular.

There are various ways to create antique copper which can be done at home. (You can also find out how to antique brass).

How to Darken/Oxidize/Antique Copper

Here is a collection of various methods that you can try out. Experiment with the various antiquing metals to discover your own favourite.

Bleach

Ensure copper pieces are clean and dry. With a sponge, apply neat bleach (Domestos works best) onto the copper surface. Let the bleach dry (approx. 12 hours). Reapply till you get the patina colour you want.

Hard Boiled Eggs

To make the copper "green", place them in a plastic bag with crushed hard boiled eggs. Tie up bag and leave overnight.

Harpic

To achieve a spotted, acid-washed look, use Harpic (toilet cleaner).

1. Wipe copper with a cloth that has been wet with Harpic
2. Leave for a day.
3. Gently was off. Do not scrub or rub as that might remove the patina formation powder.
4. Let dry. Then protect with clear lacquer.

Liver of Sulphur

Liver of Sulphur is available as a dilute, ready to use liquid, or a crystal-like solid that can be diluted in water. It is now readily available from a number of sites so you can just Google for it. You can also try chemist stores or garden centers.

Liver of Sulphur (or Potassium Polysulphide), when using in crystal-like solid form, can be easily dissolved in water. Use about the size of your smallest thumbnail in 600ml of water. It is used to produce light brown to black patina, depending on how diluted it is. Less water = darker color.

Protecting the Antique Finish

After the antiquing process, you can seal the antique finish using beeswax. Prepared beeswax like Johnson's Wax can be applied directly using a clean. lint-free soft cloth.

You can also try floor wax or a clearcoat.

WIRE How To

WIRE How To

Tips and Tricks to Wire Up

Wire work (or wirework) is an interesting, diverse, and expanding field. If you are a beginner, it often feels over-whelming. All those terms and jargon. All the things you need to know to be able to tame your wire to do what it is told. Here we hope to bring more and more wire tips, tricks, and how to so that you and your jewelry wire become better friends.

Straighten Wire

Straighten Wire

Tips and Tricks: work hardening wire

The jewelry wire you buy often comes coiled (as in spools). There are times when it is just handy to have a straight piece of wire to work with - like if you were contemplating making some ear wires.

There is a very simple way to straighten wire as well as make them stronger.

1) Uncoil a short length of wire. Grip one end tightly with a flat nose plier. Tip: use pliers with non-serrated jaws so that you don't mark the wire.
2) With a second set of pliers, grip a point along the wire - away from the first one. The distance apart should be approximately the length you would like to straighten. Pull both pliers away from each other with some strength. You should feel the wire straightening. This work hardens [definition] the wire.
3) You should now end up with a usable, strong, straight piece of wire.

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Embroidery Thread Woven Earrings

EmbroideryWoven Earrings

Woven Earring and Pendants from Sooz

Credits

Tutorial contributed by Sue (or Sooz as she is known on Australia's Beading Forum). This lady is vastly talented and versatile in her creativity. Here she shows how with the ingenuous use of embroidery threads and some wire, you can create some truly funky and delicious pieces of jewelry.

You can visit Sue at her site: Divajools

Finished Jewelry

Jewelry Making Steps

1) Cut a 14cm piece of 18 gauge wire 2). Shape 14cm length around a mandrel or similar to create nice oval shape - I used a seed bead container but you could use dowel etc. 3) Cross the wires over to form teardrop shape but do not fix yet - just bend to mark where they will join.
4) Coil enough 22g wire to make a 6 -7cm coil. I used the little rod on the Coiling Gizmo and about 80cms of wire
5) Pull coil gently to spread so that it will be long enough to go over your (14cm) wire.
6) Thread coil over wire and trim to fit. Squeeze the end of the coil nice and tightly around the wire where you made the bends.
7) Wrap one side of straight wire over the other and trim, leaving one bit (about 1cm long) sticking straight up.
8) Split the embroidery thread and use just a single strand. You will need about 4m of the first colour. Tie this tightly around the top of the teardrop. I find multiple knots are a good way to go!
9) Take thread to halfway point at the bottom of the teardrop and loop between coils.
10) Take thread back up and place into the coil to the right of the first thread.
11) Take thread down and place into the coil next to the one at the halfway point, moving in a clockwise direction. 12) Continue all the way to the top, take thread to the bottom half-way point and back to the top to finish. Tie off well.
13) Start second colour by tying to the top and taking down to half-way point at the bottom of the teardrop. (If you don't quite understand "taking down to half-way point ...", have a look at picture below for step 18 for further clarification).
14) Decide where you want to start the next colour - take thread to that point and continue as for first colour.
15) Tie off to finish.
16) Start 3rd colour by tying at the top and taking thread to half-way point at bottom of teardrop. Weave third colour in the same manner as first two.
17) Use some super glue to really fix the knots and then trim.
18) This is what the back looks like! Those straight bits are the threads you have taken from the top to the bottom halfway point after tying at the top!
19) Finish off with a bead cap or bead to hide thread and untidy wire work! Voila! 20) Repeat to make the other ear-ring.