Chainmail for Newbies

Chainmail for Newbies

Chainmaille Basics - An Overview

You are here because you want to start on the exciting journey of chainmail-ing. Congratulations to you. But you might have tried before and there was just too much information, too much terminology, too much you were supposed to know .. and you gave up in frustration. Well this little Chainmail for Newbies is just for you. Forget all the other stuff. (You will pick them up as you go - even before you know it.) For now, this is all you need to know about chainmaille.

What is Chainmail?

linking jumprings in chainmail weave

In the simplest form, chainmail (aka chainmaille, maille, chain maille) is made of jump rings. How you link the jumprings together is called the weave. Each weave requires a number of jumprings going through other jumpring(s). To ensure that they all sit comfortably - not too loose and not too stiff - we need to ensure that the size of the jumprings used is suitable for that particular weave. This is where the AR (aspect ratio) of a jumpring becomes important to the chainmaille weave you are trying to create.

Don't worry about the new terminology.
Step by Step we shall go ..

Basic Basic Chainmail Requirements

  1. determine what weave you would like
  2. then jumprings with what AR is usable

Let's just accept for now that there are a lot of weaves for you to look forward to. But for us to know what jumprings to get for any one weave, we need to understand ..

What the heck is Aspect Ratio?

Jumpring Aspect Ratio

In general jewelry making scenarios, we normally buy jump rings of a certain size. This, by convention, is the outer diameter of a ring. And though less frequently specified, we know that the jumprings are made of wire (normally but not necessarily round) which has a certain diameter.

In chainmail, these facts are no different. We just need to focus on different aspects of the same facts.

For chainmail weaves, we want to know the:

  • WD (wire diameter) of the wire (which is used to make the jump ring) - also called the wire gauge
  • ID (inner diameter) of the jumpring

With these two figures, we can work out the all important AR (aspect ratio) of the ring.

AR = ID /WD

As alluded to, AR is all important in chainmaille. Getting the correct ring sizes determines how well, or if at all, your maille project will turn out.

There is often a range of AR per weave that will yield a pleasing aesthetic result. And most tutorials and information sheets on chainmaille weaves will specify the Aspect Ratio range. You can also have a look at our (growing) Weaves List where these ranges are documented.

Calculating AR

calculating aspect ratio

Let's say you buy jumprings that have:

  • ID = 3mm
  • WD = 0.8mm

So what is it's AR?

AR = ID/WD = 3/0.8 = 3.75 aspect ratio

Wire Gauges

WD (wire diameter) is the wire gauge.

Whether you buy wire to make your own rings or you buy ready made jumprings, you will need to know the WD. Sometimes this is specified (by the seller) in gauge size or in inches or in millimeters. If specified in gauge size, you will need a wire gauge conversion table to make the conversion (into mm or inch) so that you can work out the needed AR.

There are lots out there but here is one handy wire gauge conversion table [new window].

Also, it is best to work with one measurement unit you are most comfortable with. Personally, I convert everything into millimeters for maximum convenience.

Summary

  1. Determine which chainmail weave you want to make. (See: Weaves List to start.)
  2. Find the preferred AR for that weave.
  3. Get/make the jumprings that have that (approximate) AR (aspect ratio).
Go back to top of Chainmail for Newbies